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Thread: Harness mounting

  1. #1
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Harness mounting

    I'm removing the steel rod in the engine bay which is used to hold the harness on the back firewall.

    I've decided to use these nylon mounts which let you install a cable "tie wrap". I think it will look cleaner and save a little weight.

    http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...44-SGTM3S10-C0
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #2
    Senior Member Christian Dietrich's Avatar
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    We have stuff like that here at Metro that you can use tie wraps and its heavy duty 3m backing. This will look good Dave!

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    Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    I pulled the bar and brackets off. There are studs that hold it on the firewall. Had to use a wrench on the passenger side nut because it's right next to the bulkhead metal plate. So are these studs bonded into the firewall? I would like to remove them and plug all the holes someday. I guess I could just cut them off with my Dremel. Or just drill them out.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #4
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    Harness mounting

    I removed the rod a few years ago when I switched out my engine harness to the late style version. I opted not to install any replacement harness clips.
    I believe I just used a few tie wraps and secured it down in the frame cross brace. It leaves the back wall much less cluttered.

    I left the studs in the back wall and covered them with acorn nuts to pretty things up a bit.


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  5. #5
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    I left the studs in the back wall and covered them with acorn nuts to pretty things up a bit.
    I pulled the back wood cover off to look if those studs would come out but there is insulation with a black rubber cover glued onto the back. So I could not see if those studs would push out. Not sure if I will go through the effort to pull that insulation.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I pulled the back wood cover off to look if those studs would come out but there is insulation with a black rubber cover glued onto the back. So I could not see if those studs would push out. Not sure if I will go through the effort to pull that insulation.
    Those four studs are part of the two brackets where it makes a self for the back plywood sits on. I put nuts on them but you really don't need to since the foam is glued over the brackets which holds them tight. Note the drivers side the holes for that bracket are oblong to give you adjustment for the engine light switch. But that would move the bracket holding that plywood also.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 01-13-2017 at 03:21 PM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Customized Member 81dmc's Avatar
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    I did the same to my engine bay when I reconfigured much of the wiring. I also deleted the ballast resistor setup and moved the light switch next to the latch on the closing panel.

    Rodolfo

    VIN 831 AUTO—SPEC I Stainless Exhaust, Delorean.eu Roof Box, Kenwood Double Din, Recovered Black Leather Interior, Improved Wiring Harnesses, Custom Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster...Shall I continue?

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180
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