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Thread: VIN 4365 Project

  1. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    Brakes

    The wheels are off and the brakes are removed. I pulled apart the calipers and they all seem to be in decent shape. The pistons are in good shape and no pitting or anything else that I can see. All the rust appears to be on the outside. The brake fluid that leaked out was not exactly clean, but it wasn't anywhere near black either. I'll have to clean them off and rebuild them. I want to paint them right away as long as I have them out. I've got a guy here in town that is willing to sand blast them for me. So it looks like some rebuild kits are in my future.

    Anybody have recommendations on the paint to use on the brakes? I know it will require high temperature paint. I'm still debating on the color to paint them. I don't think the car needs to be flashy so maybe just a nice black to keep it from rusting.

    The rotors, though covered in rust, don't seem to be worn badly. I'll knock off the rust to see how much metal is left. I can't make much of an assessment until I take care of the rust.

    The last piece is the brake lines. The hard lines look ok. I'm just worried about the rubber lines after this many years. The coupler that goes through the frame looks like it leaked, so I'll have to take a look at that. Not sure if its the coupler or the lines. Hard to tell with the coolant line running right there.

    IMG_20170826_131951278.jpg
    IMG_20170826_132128600.jpg
    IMG_20170826_132144860.jpg
    IMG_20170826_132201211.jpg
    IMG_20170826_132213857.jpg

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,886

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Really digging in there...

    I agree access to the fuel filter is somewhat lacking..they shoulda put it in a more accesible place like either near the distributor or the pump, IMO.

    Those rotors may just have surface rust (hopefully) as mine did/do...when they get used most of that will come off..but looking at a couple of your pics they have a bit more than mine..so may need replacing.

    I've heard its a good idea to replace the rubber lines if they are the originals, simply because that old, they probably wont last too much longer.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  3. #23
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    Spring is here!

    I've gotten back to her now that the snow is gone. Not too long ago we had snow here, today its going to be 95 degrees. We seemed to have gone from winter straight to summer here in Wisconsin.

    I've spend a few nights out there and took off the distributor, air metering system, and intake. The good news is the metering system looks good. Doesn't look like there are any issues there. Just need to clean it up and make it look good.

    Now comes the bad news, the distributor is about as stuck as it can be. I've put some atf/acetone on the piston to try to get it to move and I can't get any movement on it. The only thing I haven't tried is air pressure through the WUR port. I've been kind of afraid to try it. At this point, I don't think I have much to lose.

    Another thing is that I found lots of walnut shells under the intake. A rodent of some sort made a home under the intake, so I pulled that off. So far the valley of death looks good. I still need to do some cleaning on it because of all the crap the rodents left behind. As long as I'm in there I might as well replace the hoses and water pump.

    So this brings up my question: with all the issues I'm likely to find with this fuel system, should I just bite the bullet at this point and switch to EFI? I've looked through the forums and it seems like its best to start with a well running motor. If I'm going to invest into getting the Bosch system working, I'm going to use it. I figure by the time I take care the fuel lines, distributor, lambda, and all of these other components, I'm going to be well into a better, more modern fuel system.

    Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe the K-jet system is well documented enough that it won't be a problem keeping it running. Any thoughts?

    So my next steps are to do inspections inside the heads and lower unit to see if those need to come apart as well. I'm hoping they will look good, but I won't know until I put a camera in there to take a look.

    Picture of the valley, after some cleaning.
    IMG_20180523_205914054.jpg
    IMG_20180523_205904391.jpg

    Some of the walnut shells removed - some...
    IMG_20180523_205855406.jpg

    Pic of the distributor
    IMG_20180518_072538602.jpg

  4. #24
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    More Progress

    I got to spend some time over the past couple of weekends. The water pump is out and now I've got full access to the valley. After clearing out all of the rodent crap and whatever else was in there, I inspected the valley. The valley appears to be in good shape! I'm quite happy I don't have any issues there. It was kind of a pain in the butt to get all they way down there to remove all of the accumulated stuff. Once I got to the bottom, I could see it is solid metal at the bottom and there aren't any leaks.

    After doing some research, it appears the EFI change over is a little bit involved. I'll just stick with the KJet system for now. It sounds like its best to start with a running motor, and it is a winter project.

    I pulled out the warm up regulator to give that a cleaning, not much dirt in there. I ended up just cleaning it up and putting it back together. There was a couple of bits of junk in the fuel screen. See pics.

    IMG_20180606_194340056.jpg
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    I now have an order for all the rubber hoses, water pump, rebuild kits, etc. Hopefully all of it will go on as easily as it is coming off. There is plenty of documentation on the vacuum hose routing so hopefully I don't run into problems there!

    I also tried to get the fuel distributor apart. I will admit, I didn't try to hard for fear to wrecking it. Since the part normally has a pretty hefty core charge, I wanted to make sure I've got one to send back, preferably one that is still rebuildable! Since I can't get the plunger to move and I can't get it to separate, I'll let someone with more experience rebuild it. I'm sure there is plenty of dried up fuel in there. It might take some extra work to get it open and operational again.

    That's about it for now!

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2015

    Location:  Tacoma, Wa

    Posts:    1,886

    My VIN:    4877

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Sounds like some decent progress
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Now Accepting Donations to get her back on the road

  6. #26
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  NY

    Posts:    496

    My VIN:    2706

    Do yourself a favor and use silicone hoses and good clamps in the valley, pressure test while apart and then reinstall top end ....or they Will loosen up and you'll be taking the top end off again lol.

  7. #27
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    That's a great idea. I didn't think about doing a pressure test right away. Thanks.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    1,935

    My VIN:    6125

    Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread for the past year and a half. I'm also in WI so it's cool to learn about another restoration in progress close by. I'm in the Stevens Point area so if you are ever passing through give me a shout. I saw in your previous post that you're in Mt. Horeb. Great work on the car so far!
    Mark Dehlinger

  9. #29
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread for the past year and a half. I'm also in WI so it's cool to learn about another restoration in progress close by. I'm in the Stevens Point area so if you are ever passing through give me a shout. I saw in your previous post that you're in Mt. Horeb. Great work on the car so far!
    Yep, I'm down in Horeb, a bit of a drive from the Point.

    I'm just trying to get her back on the road again at this point. I think I've got quite a bit of work to do just to get it drive-able again. I've got a bunch of parts coming in soon.

    If you are in the neighborhood feel free to stop by! I can always use another hand to turn a wrench!

  10. #30
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2016

    Location:  Wisconsin

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    4365

    Last weekend I did some hose replacing. I started to pull out all of the hard lines on the drivers side of the car. I've got them out at the moment. I'm going to clean them up to make sure the new hoses will have a good surface to seal. I'm doing one side at a time so I make sure the replacement hoses are correct ones. There are many more of the short hoses than I thought there would be!

    I've got the new water pump in my hands, so I started to pull off the backing and thermostat housing from the old one. It took a bit of time and lots of patience to get all of the 35+ year old gasket off the backing. That needed to soak in parts cleaner for a while! It's nice and clean now, no need to give the gasket any reason to leak!

    Taking out the hard coolant lines also gave me a chance to look at the brake coupler where it goes through the frame. Either the line or the coupler leaked. The coupler and the line were pretty well rusted. I had to cut the coupler out. Took a while, but nothing a hacksaw couldn't cure.

    The brake fluid then leaked down the frame. Which then ate away at the coating. I was actually surprised the frame wasn't rusted more. I just took the wire brush on it and took it down to bare metal. I've got some paint to put on it to seal it back up again.

    Unfortunately, I didn't take any interesting pics. I'll have to try to get some this weekend.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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