Not, implying You. You had already stated the DPO did it. Now you need to plug them back in and let engine run till the fans cycle ON and OFF once to verify the Otterstat is still Good.
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Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Not, implying You. You had already stated the DPO did it. Now you need to plug them back in and let engine run till the fans cycle ON and OFF once to verify the Otterstat is still Good.
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Last edited by DMC5180; 06-20-2017 at 10:11 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Glad I could help out! And man, that's some A+ Previous Owner Syndrome, lol...
Something else you can do with the otterstat once you verify that it works is put an industrial-grade zip tie around it to make sure it doesn't shake loose while you're going down the highway. You can kind of see mine in the pic where it goes between the plugs.
Hey gang! It's been a while since I've updated my progress on getting the car back on the road. So far so good. I've been out of town for several months now and haven't been able to work on the car.
Now I'm back, cleaned my coolant lines, got them reconnected, and even got the block plugs out with extreme ease!
Now is the time to fill the car back up with coolant. I'm trying to clean out the block the best I can, by sticking the garden hose in the back hose, to get all the loose debris and junk out.
My question is which way does the coolant flow? From the driver's side, to the radiator, then back towards the engine on the passenger side? Or vise versa?
And about how much coolant does it take to fill the system?
Thanks all, and hopefully by tomorrow I'll be completely finished with things, for now.
James
6408 & 2168
Location: FL
Posts: 947
My VIN: Early
Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Completely dry almost 4 gallons. If you can't drain every drop out, closer to 3 1/2 Gallons.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Also the heater core lines don’t flush out naturally either. Technically, you would need to disconnect the lines where they attach to the engine. Then connect extension hoses to the lines too clear them out. Most people don’t go to the trouble to do this and just let the new coolant dilute the 1-2 quarts that might be left in the system.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Hey everyone! It's been a while since I posted here.
I can't believe I didn't say it till now, but I got the car completely running, filled it with coolant and hopefully got the lines bled. Of course it's leaking in a few spots, mainly because the ends of the coolant pipes themselves are corroded and eaten through. But the car runs!
I meant to ask this forever and a day ago, ever since I've had the car the passenger side door has been dead. Meaning, lights do not work on it and the window won't work. The lights do work on the drivers side, can't remember if the window does though.
Any suggestions on what to look for with that problem. It wouldn't bother me so much but the passenger window is rolled down a little bit and I don't want water or garbage getting into the car.
Thanks everyone!
James
2168 & 6408
Posts: 446
So the door lights and the door window don't have a lot in common electrically. Perhaps they are independent problems:
Just looking first at the door lights - does the door ajar warning come on with only the passenger door open? (I'm assuming the door ajar warning light is working with the driver door). If not, then you might check the door plunger switch and/or the ground connection for the switch. If the warning light comes on, then check the bulbs to make sure they're not burned out. If they're OK, check the purple wire power to the door lights. This can be checked without opening up the door by taking a light lens off and using a meter to see if the bulb socket has +12 volts as measured to a good ground point.
For the window - Is there any movement or noise at all when the window switch is activated? If there is, then it could be something jammed mechanically. If not, then check to see if the motor is getting power and ground. The polarity reverses to the motor in order to change direction. If no voltage to the motor, it may be a switch problem or a wiring issue. Pull the switch and check that +12 power wire is making a good connection (light green w/white). Also check that the ground is connected (black). Can you measure 12 volt power between them? If the power connections are good, check to see if power is headed out the wires to the window motor (the slate/red wire and the slate/blue wire) when the switch is pushed up and down.
Ron
Thanks for the help Ron. I actually never thought of looking at the door switch. The drivers ajar light goes off when you you push in the drivers side switch, but does nothing for the passengers side.
So then I crawled under the dash and took the picture. You can see these wires just hanging there. Any idea where they attach to? I assum they go to the passenger side switch, but there are 4 wires total and only 2 hook up areas.
Thanks!
James
Posts: 4,807
My VIN: 3937
Those extra wires on the passenger side are probably for the glovebox light. The light itself or the switch that is supposed to be located just beside where the latch is. I know when I first got my car, that switch was hanging down and I didn't even see it right away. It is the same type of switch that's used for the engine bay light.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior