From my understanding. The dwell reading shouldn't change if the o2 is disconnected.
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Location: Farmington Hills MI
Posts: 359
My VIN: 2203
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
From my understanding. The dwell reading shouldn't change if the o2 is disconnected.
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Posts: 125
I agree, but what did you do to your mixture screw?
Location: Farmington Hills MI
Posts: 359
My VIN: 2203
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I adjusted it for the smoothest idle.
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A noble cause, but what did you do to your mixture setting? It's a simple question and we just want to help.
Location: Farmington Hills MI
Posts: 359
My VIN: 2203
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
What did I do to my mixture setting? Well i do notice that it runs better set richer, but it makes it idle hunt.
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My VIN: 500 ft pounds torque.
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Based on what I'm hearing, it sounds lean. Does the fuel enrichment switch work?
Soundkillr was here.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
If you are trying to get the engine to run as it was designed to, doesn't it make sense to get the things you know are disconnected or not working resolved first, and THEN move onto other areas you suspect are a problem?
I personally think the engine design along with the fuel system was fine for what it is and that it'll run fine too if it is all in order. If a piece or two is out of order on the other hand, then trying to get it to run smooth, or nice, or whatever in spite of that is only going to have you (and us) chasing your tail.
Not saying this is a waste of people's time trying to help, but if you know a portion of the engine is disconnected or not functioning, then fix that first. Si?
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Farmington Hills MI
Posts: 359
My VIN: 2203
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Yes' the fuel enrichment switch works, however it is only pressed under full throttle.
Most of the car's hesitation issues are at 1000 to 2000 rpm.
The fact of the matter is, the engine is starving for fuel under moderate to heavy acceleration. Even after everything else in the fuel system had been replaced and is in working order as far as I know.
I have modified the vacuum hose routing to allow for CPR fuel enrichment even after the engine has warmed up. I've used a needle valve inline with the vacuum hose to keep the fuel from becoming too rich.
Now the car runs and drives better than it ever has.
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Location: Yorkshire UK
Posts: 198
My VIN: No. 4068
What was the dwell reading? What was the setting on the meter?Originally Posted by RamblinDMC
If you had the meter set to "4 cylinder dwell" and you read approx '45' on the meter, then it's likely your oxygen sensor is disconnected and you are running open loop, and connecting the vacuum line to the cpr may reduce the control pressure to riven the mixture to compensate for your lean mixture adjustment.
If you had the meter set to "4 cylinder dwell" and you read approx '52' on the meter, then it's likely you have a stuck/ short full load throttle switch/ lambda switch or a short to earth on the wiring. This would fix the dwell setting and the oxygen sensor feedback will not be used by the fuel computer.
State if you have a catalytic converter in the exhaust and if you've checked for correct operation of the thermo-vac switch.
Good luck
Nick
Posts: 1,027
My VIN: 500 ft pounds torque.
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Is the car boosted? My understanding of this technique is, it won't work unless there is boost pressure, or pressure pushing down on the diaphragm to mechanically trick the car to running richer....
not trying to derail your thread, just want to make sure it is working for you, without giving a spike, then leaning back out.
without pressure the car will richer for a bit, but then leans back out...
Soundkillr was here.
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