0 280 220 003
If I understand correctly, this part number is NOT what you're looking for?
Posts: 2,517
0 280 220 003
If I understand correctly, this part number is NOT what you're looking for?
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
I have not seen every part number that would be compatable. Just as long as the connectors and case look the same it should work. I just use the connector and case and install my new circuit board to them. If you get the 11 pin connectors, you will need to pull the two nylon keys from one connector in your harness.Originally Posted by thirdmanj
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
Well I made one value change to the amount the ISM opens at engine start above 50 deg F. That change runs the ISM about 10% wider open at start. It now works great with the OEM ISM and seems to also work great with the Volvo ISM. I will keep running my car with this change for more testing time.
Just for your info. The start position is adjusted wider open according to the engine temp. But that only affects starts colder than 50 deg. F. Above that temp the start position is fixed just a little wider than half open. This is also the way the OEM ECU works. So if you have the ISM removed but plugged in, you should see it jump to half open when you first turn the key to on.
Location: Cranberry Twp., PA
Posts: 116
My VIN: ex-01678
Dave,
I saw in an Orlando thread you are offering these for sale. Is all the testing done that the beta testers were doing? I am just wondering about the status and if you are releasing the final product now. I have followed this thread and I am interested in one.
Jeff
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
I still need to do some "tweaks" to the software when I can get some time. But the other users are happy with the results. But nothing is ever perfected. My car has been running fine with it until a drive the other day (was 93 degrees) showed a 3 or 4 cycle hunt sometimes went I hit the clutch. Since I'm busy with DCS right now, I just set the DIP switch to add one extra delay time and will see if that corrects that problem. I run the Volvo idle motor which is a slower than the OEM idle motor.
Location: Cranberry Twp., PA
Posts: 116
My VIN: ex-01678
Thanks, Dave. I know how you mean nothing is perfect but your standards are high so that is good enough for me. I have the OEM idle motor but I think you have the ECU figured out for both units. Keep us updated about all of your findings.
Jeff
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
Well running with the added delay of one seems to have fixed that hunt condition I had seen. I don't see anything got hurt adding that delay. I do think I will reduce the value I have in my software which adds a little higher RPM to the idle for the first few seconds after you take your foot off the throttle. That may have aggravated that hunt problem but I think it would be better to lower it anyway.
So far it looks like if your running the Volvo idle motor, you may find it better to use one delay (DIP switch selection).
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
I was getting an idle hunt on some real hot days after running the car for an hour or more. The hunt started showing up sooner on cooler days to the point after any drive I had the hunt.
I tried a new idle ECU = same
I tried a stock ISM = same
I tried a spare ignition ECU = same
Mixture change = same (I have wideband controlled mixture)
Thinking about the problem showing up when hot, that is when the ISM is running close to closed. So I backed out my curb idle and that cured (so far) the idle hunt. For you info, the ISM (both stock and Volvo) have less force moving the idle control valve near full closed and full open. It's just the way a PWM linear valve works.
I wonder if I am developing a vacuum leak somewhere that caused this problem to show up.
So if your idle hunting is occurring with a hot engine (stock or my ECU), try backing out that curb idle screw.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,005
My VIN: 03572
The idle ECU has two 6 pin connectors and one has 5 pins and the other 4 pins. They put plastic plugs (keys) into the blank locations so they can't be mixed up and plugged into the wrong side. I have 11 pin ECUs so you need to remove the two keys in the connector that has two of them installed. You don't need those two anyway because the other connector with one key will prevent mixing up the locations with either the 11 pin or stock 9 pin ECUs.
The keys have a little tab molded onto it so it locks into the connector housing just like the pins lock into the housing. However the plastic key does not bend so only way I found to remove them is to cut that little tab off with an X-acto knife. That can be done from the wire side of the connector. Just be careful you don't cut your finger or damage the connector shell. I use one of those locations to wire my AC bump circuit with my 11 pin idle ECUs.
Like I said, you can remove those two keys even before you order my 11 pin ECU. So many people insist on keeping the 9 pin ECU which I don't have units built up in inventory since most people keep or sell their 9 pin cores.
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 319
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Hi Dave,
Does the ECU lose all its learned values after the battery is cut off?
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Dave M vin 03572