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Thread: BAE polished turbo kit, excellent condition

  1. #1
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    890

    My VIN:    500 ft pounds torque.

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    BAE polished turbo kit, excellent condition

    Up for sale is an almost complete, hard to find BAE turbo kit. Almost complete in the respect you will need to purchase a few cheap miscellaneous fittings, and one rubber hose to reroute coolant.

    That said, this kit was purchased by me 20 years ago. These are nearly impossible to get now, especially one in good condition. This turbo kit has less than 10k miles on it, always had synthetic run through it, and was always properly cooled. It was the top of the line polished kit from BAE. The rayjay turbo is in excellent condition with no shaft play, and didn't leak or burn a drop of oil. This kit will make some great power, and for reference (at 5 pounds) is stronger than a stage 2 car. All fitting and piping are in great shape, and as you can see by the pics, the main turbo housing and wastegate are still extremely clean as the car was never driven in the rain. The kit will include a modified distributer, so all the hard work is done. It took me weeks to find a way to properly modify the distributor. The kit will also include a copy of install instructions, all piping and drain valves, a fresh air intake hose to air cleaner box, knee bolsters with boost and fuel enrichment gauge (you will need a harness for the gauge or replace the gauge with another style). It will include polished pressure tubes with an added blow off valve (used as a safety feature in the event the wastegate ever failed). The pipes and intake are polished, and if you polish them with a polisher will shine up like new to an almost mirror surface. As you can see, the intake has a really cool custom plate (graphic) that I made.

    I will also include a full polished top mount intercooler. The intercooler kit was a work in progress, and will still need work to make right. I designed mounting brackets that used all factory mounting locations so no holes will need to be drilled. Brackets are done, piping was close to done, but you will need to have elbow brackets welded to the piping so everything fits. If it weren't a draw through turbo, it could be done with the silicon elbow adapters, that I will provide for test fitting. An intercooler is not needed for this kit with low boost applications, but with it, you will be able to safetly increase boost. It is similar in design to the Legends top mount intercooler. It includes a pusher fan that is mounted to the bottom to increase air flow.

    The waste gate makes boost adjustable from 4 to 9 pounds (no more than 6 pounds is recommended), and makes the car really move. It will include full exhaust as well, but you will need to reweld the included exhaust tip. I'm not sure why it was removed from the muffler. I will also include a full set of instructions for fuel modifications at the CPR, as well as the Hobbs boost pressure switch. Correct fuel modification is important, and many of these kits DID NOT include the much needed Hobbs switch for fuel enrichment. It was later added to the kits when sold new. This was one of the later kits that had the switch, but like I said, it will also include instructions for even more fuel under boost.

    This kit performed flawlessly on my car (see attached photos of it installed on my car). When I sold the car it was shipped to its new owner in California. Due to CARB regulations in California, he could not use the kit for street legal use, and had to remove it. I purchased it back from him for another project Delorean, but I decided I'm taking a break from Deloreans and don't want this kit just sitting. That said, IT DOES NOT have a catalytic converter. It is possible to add one to the kit, but that is up to you. This kit was originally sold without one. Check your local laws on emissions.

    I'm asking $3,000 (plus shipping) for the entire kit, knee bolsters with gauges, distributor and intercooler kit, with extra piping and adapters. This kind of kit is extremely hard to find, and when installed correctly, makes a MAJOR bang for your buck. I can aid with questions over the phone, and can help with install over the phone as well. PM me for details, and I will provide you with my number, and we can talk over the phone. I would like to answer any and all questions before someone purchases the kit.

    All the fittings and studs are in great shape with antiseize on the exhaust bolts, so installing it should be as easy if it were a brand new kit.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Soundkillr; 04-11-2017 at 08:10 AM. Reason: price drop
    Soundkillr was here.

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    16

    Interesting. I couldn't tell from the photos, but how does the exhaust route from both manifolds to the turbo? I also can't tell how you get filtered air to the turbo and how the fuel metering works. It looks like the kit compresses the fuel charge.
    Last edited by Mike Griese; 03-05-2017 at 05:06 AM.
    --
    Mike

  3. #3
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    890

    My VIN:    500 ft pounds torque.

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    You remove the 4 bolts at the catalytic converter, and remove the assembly. Both manifolds run through there, the turbo bolts there. I believe air is drawn at the throttle body (and through the air box and metering unit) and charged at the runners...
    Soundkillr was here.

  4. #4
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    1,725

    My VIN:    01049

    Apologies for the thread hijack, but for learning purposes, I'm curious what's involved with modifying the distributor?
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    16

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundkillr View Post
    You remove the 4 bolts at the catalytic converter, and remove the assembly. Both manifolds run through there, the turbo bolts there. I believe air is drawn at the throttle body (and through the air box and metering unit) and charged at the runners...
    That makes sense since you have described it. Thanks!
    --
    Mike

  6. #6
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    890

    My VIN:    500 ft pounds torque.

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    Apologies for the thread hijack, but for learning purposes, I'm curious what's involved with modifying the distributor?
    No problem at all, the correct way to do it was throw it on a sun pro distributor machine and stop the 2nd weight advance at 4000 rpm. Several installers didn't do this, and the car would over advance time past 4k and detonate.
    Soundkillr was here.

  7. #7
    '82 T3 Turbo FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    461

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by opethmike View Post
    Apologies for the thread hijack, but for learning purposes, I'm curious what's involved with modifying the distributor?
    The BAE manual online lists the procedure, but basically you clobber the secondary advance mechanism. These days ignition retard can be done electronically instead of statically, too.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 1982 Grey 5-Speed :: Single T3 .60/.48 Watercooled :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X In Process :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

    Console5.com - Game console parts, kits, games and more. [shop] [wiki] [RSS] [f] [t]

  8. #8
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    1,725

    My VIN:    01049

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundkillr View Post
    No problem at all, the correct way to do it was throw it on a sun pro distributor machine and stop the 2nd weight advance at 4000 rpm. Several installers didn't do this, and the car would over advance time past 4k and detonate.
    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    The BAE manual online lists the procedure, but basically you clobber the secondary advance mechanism. These days ignition retard can be done electronically instead of statically, too.
    Thanks guys, I appreciate the education. I am currently running fuel control via Megasquirt, but still stock ignition system. I wanted to know in case I decide to go forced induction at some point.
    -Mike
    1981 DeLorean, heads/cams/exhaust, EFI
    1999 Corvette, heads/cam/exhaust, 440 BHP
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  9. #9
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    890

    My VIN:    500 ft pounds torque.

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Bump
    Soundkillr was here.

  10. #10
    User title. Soundkillr's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    890

    My VIN:    500 ft pounds torque.

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    price drop

    Price dropped to 3000 plus shipping.
    Soundkillr was here.

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