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Thread: How long before attempting restart after flooding engine?

  1. #21
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Yeah, they probably just did a quick pressure test to see if/how much the system leaked down. If it passed, you're most likely just fine. If there was something wrong with your injectors, you would need an injector popper for starters to test them out. But for now, I wouldn't worry about the injectors.

    How has the car been behaving since?
    Robert

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  2. #22
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    Yeah, they probably just did a quick pressure test to see if/how much the system leaked down. If it passed, you're most likely just fine. If there was something wrong with your injectors, you would need an injector popper for starters to test them out. But for now, I wouldn't worry about the injectors.

    How has the car been behaving since?
    Took two tries to start when I stopped for gas and then got on the internet for 10 minutes in central UT, but other than that, it's been fine. I still haven't gotten in the habit of pressing the gas pedal when I start and 9 out of 10 times it starts up pretty fast. Maybe I'm doing something inconsistently with how I'm pushing the clutch or the brake?

    I did get a whiff of gas a few times, usually when going uphill, but IDK if I just put my gas cap on loose or something, b/c it didn't seem to happen as much after I filled up the 2nd time. I know the fans can blow fumes in if the cap is worn or loose, but it wasn't running that hot and the cap is new. Last time it was a loose clamp, although it was doing it all the time then. Probably won't hurt to get it looked at again once my other car is back together.

  3. #23
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    I'd do two things:

    Check the gas tank around the fuel pump seal for leaks (gas smell issue) and check if your CSV is firing during hot starts. Once the engine is hot turn the engine off, unscrew the CSV from the brass pipe and place it in a container, seal the brass pipe (tape usually works fine) and crank start the car for a second or two. If the engine is hot and you have gas in the container, something is wrong with the CSV circuit (CSV valve, TTS, wiring).

  4. #24
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    Took two tries to start when I stopped for gas and then got on the internet for 10 minutes in central UT, but other than that, it's been fine. I still haven't gotten in the habit of pressing the gas pedal when I start and 9 out of 10 times it starts up pretty fast. Maybe I'm doing something inconsistently with how I'm pushing the clutch or the brake?
    That right there is the most common pitfall when it comes to troubleshooting. Looking for answers by trying to invent other problems. The answer here of course is a "No" to that question.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    I did get a whiff of gas a few times, usually when going uphill, but IDK if I just put my gas cap on loose or something, b/c it didn't seem to happen as much after I filled up the 2nd time. I know the fans can blow fumes in if the cap is worn or loose, but it wasn't running that hot and the cap is new. Last time it was a loose clamp, although it was doing it all the time then. Probably won't hurt to get it looked at again once my other car is back together.
    Do me a favor: Drive the car for about 30 minutes or so on surface streets, and get the car warmed up. Not just to the point where your fans come on, but where they have cycled on and off a couple of times in some traffic. Stay off the interstate, and do this preferably on at least a warm day.

    Once you have the car nice and warmed up, idle it in the driveway where the fans come on. Then I want you to remove the gas cap and shove a pencil or something down into the Inlet Restrictor to force that little metal spring loaded flap out of the way. When you do that, tell me if you feel a big "WHOOSH!" of gas fumes blowing up and out of the filler neck.
    Robert

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  5. #25
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    Well, it just did it again. First start of the day, I tried starting with it in neutral and the gas pedal pushed halfway in, first time it wouldn't start, 2nd time it tried to catch, kept dropping off and trying to quit, finally died . There's a new symptom: I'm hearing a whirring noise from the back. It's not the antenna b/c the radio is turned off.

    Edit: gave it one more try with the pedal floored ( I think that's what worked last time) and it caught, then died when I let off the gas. I'm still getting a gas smell in the back after attempting to start.
    Last edited by DaraSue; 03-11-2017 at 02:39 PM.

  6. #26
    Delorean Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    Well, it just did it again. First start of the day, I tried starting with it in neutral and the gas pedal pushed halfway in, first time it wouldn't start, 2nd time it tried to catch, kept dropping off and trying to quit, finally died . There's a new symptom: I'm hearing a whirring noise from the back. It's not the antenna b/c the radio is turned off.

    Edit: gave it one more try with the pedal floored ( I think that's what worked last time) and it caught, then died when I let off the gas. I'm still getting a gas smell in the back after attempting to start.
    Next time you try starting the motor and it doesn't start quickly try the plug swap and see what happens. Make sure there is nothing plugged into the hot start relay plug by the fuse block behind the passenger seat.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #27
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Next time you try starting the motor and it doesn't start quickly try the plug swap and see what happens. Make sure there is nothing plugged into the hot start relay plug by the fuse block behind the passenger seat.
    I tried the plug swap earlier and again just now and it did the same thing, started to run and then died when I took my foot off the gas. This last time I noticed the whirring noise and also a clicking that sounded like it was coming from the rear passenger's side.

    Here's my fuse compartment, it was updated by the seller so IDK if it's exactly the same as the original. I was looking at this one for reference and it looks different than mine: http://www.deloreanautoparts.com/del...ay-comp-tb.jpg

    IMG_20170311_150118.jpgIMG_20170311_150055.jpgIMG_20170311_150102.jpgIMG_20170311_150106.jpgIMG_20170311_150113.jpg

    I tried to look at the bulkhead wiring too but the cover didn't want to come all the way off. What I could see through the gap looked like it might be original wiring.

  8. #28
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    I was looking at the terminals on the driver's side in the back, and this doesn't look right:

    IMG_20170312_122442.jpg burntwire.JPG

    The plug on the lower right looks like it's melted. According to this, it's the wire to the coil. Now what?

  9. #29
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    I was looking at the terminals on the driver's side in the back, and this doesn't look right:

    IMG_20170312_122442.jpg burntwire.JPG

    The plug on the lower right looks like it's melted. According to this, it's the wire to the coil. Now what?
    Bad connection caused to much heat. That resistor get hot anyway. You will need a new terminal crimped on. You probably have enough good wire to crimp a new terminal on the end. That could be the cause of your starting problem.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #30
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Bad connection caused to much heat. That resistor get hot anyway. You will need a new terminal crimped on. You probably have enough good wire to crimp a new terminal on the end. That could be the cause of your starting problem.
    Thanks, by bad connection, you mean it was probably just loose?

    What's the name of these terminals, so I know what to look for?

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