Loose or dirty connections will produce heat with high currents in the circuit.Originally Posted by DaraSue
Those are standard 1/4" wide flat sockets. You can find them in auto parts stores. It wont look like the original black one.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
Loose or dirty connections will produce heat with high currents in the circuit.
Those are standard 1/4" wide flat sockets. You can find them in auto parts stores. It wont look like the original black one.
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
I tried re-terminating the wire with the melted plug, but it still wouldn't start, and I'm still hearing the clicking noise from the coil area, which I'm guessing means I need a new coil. How do I get the black plug off the top of the old one? Does it just pull off? It didn't want to come loose when I tried wiggling it around and I don't want to just yank on it and risk breaking something...
Picture 268-2.jpg
I bought this coil last night but comparing the specs to the ones in the service manual I'm not sure it's right, and Danny @CA recommends using the Bosch one.
Last edited by DaraSue; 03-14-2017 at 01:15 PM.
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,106
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Is that a flamethrower coil? It caused all kinds of problems for me, OEM coil cleared everything up. (See post 22: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...uestions/page3)
The coil wire on top of the coil just pulls straight up and off. Try twisting it a bit before pulling it up, it won't simply fall out of the coil and it will have resistance trying to pull it out.
Also, when you try to start and it won't fire, try pulling the air filter housing off and have either someone hold the plate open a small amount or put a slim screwdriver or similar between the metering plate & unit to hold it open a little (just make sure it isn't a tiny screwdriver that can fall into the unit) and then see if it fires.
The clicking sound - if it clicks repeatedly every second or so for a good few seconds after you return the key to run position from start, would be the RPM relay. Mine would do this for at least 5 seconds on occasion when my engine failed to fire, sometimes it wouldn't do it at all.
Last edited by dn010; 03-14-2017 at 01:55 PM.
-----Dan B.
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
The coil is an MSD Blaster 2, but I think I'm going to take it back and wait to get a stock one from CA.
If the clicking is the relay not the coil, maybe my coil is adequate and I did the wire wrong. How much should I have stripped off the end, for the blue terminals? Looking at it, I think the end of the copper wire isn't quite touching the prong that sticks off the resistor - is it supposed to be?
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
Picture 272.jpg
Here's the terminal. It was my first time crimping and I think the crimper I got at the auto parts store wasn't that great. I practiced on the segment I cut off and got it on the first try, but this one took like 5 tries to get it to stay on.
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,106
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
Usually those cheap crimpers aren't that great to begin with but it does look it's done and it's solid. As long as the wire is crimped, the copper strands don't necessarily need to make contact with the resistor blade, just take a look at factory crimps and you'll get an idea of how it should look. Try to gently pull the wire from the crimped connector and if it pops off you know the crimp was no good.
-----Dan B.
Location: The LC
Posts: 1,057
My VIN: 10907
Just gave it another try. First time I gave up just as it might have been starting to catch, 2nd time it caught but then died as soon as I let off the gas. Does this still sound like it's probably the ignition or possibly something else?
Dave M vin 03572
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