Radiator fan replacement help

[David T]

Or you can get a copper and brass one from PJ Grady. The advantage to that one is it can be repaired or recored in the future as opposed to an aluminum one which is basically disposable.

[mr_maxime]

I already ordered a new dmceu unit and the 2 hoses that connect to the radiator. I simply cut those off and drained from there. It's kind of really shitty that if you have to do a front end recall you might as well get a new radiator too. I knew it was a good idea while I was in there, but didn't think it'd be an absolute necessity.

[Nicholas R]

It's kind of really shitty that if you have to do a front end recall you might as well get a new radiator too. I knew it was a good idea while I was in there, but didn't think it'd be an absolute necessity.

I think it's only when you're doing the front end recall with a 35 year old original radiator.

Plus, if it failed with that little tweak, that radiator was already on it's way out. Better that you had the issue now than it blowing seals while doing 70mph on the highway.

[Nate88]

Is DMCH no longer offering their aluminum radiator? I installed one of those on my car about 3 years ago and aside from a little bit of clearance grinding on the shroud it was a perfect swap. Or is that just the same one from DMCEU that they are reselling?

I'm doing a complete cooling system upgrade, new cooling fans from Northwest, new radiator, and stainless bottle (all of which are original). The hoses were replaced with silicone by PO, so don't have to worry about those. I was planning on going with DMCH's radiator and they show that they offer one and in stock: http://store.delorean.com/p-6273-radiator.aspx. It is kinda pricey. I like that it has a built in drain which just by looking at the picture the DMCEU doesn't appear to have one.

Is one better than the other, or are they pretty much the same and it is personal preference?

[Mark D]

I'm not sure how the DMC EU and DMCH aluminum radiators compare from a performance standpoint.

I wasn't even sure if they were even different until I did a little more checking and it does appear they are not the same unit. I'd be interested to know which is better, but I think either is a good choice compared to a failing stock radiator.

[mr_maxime]

Plus, if it failed with that little tweak, that radiator was already on it's way out. Better that you had the issue now than it blowing seals while doing 70mph on the highway.

That's a very good point. I think my accords radiator separated in the same "area" where the plastic connects to the metal. That was a *much* easier and cheaper replacement though lol

[Ratrace427]

If you take the ac condenser out the lower line may take the threads with it. It's up to you on whether you want the risk. I think getting the stack out is much easier but the condenser will probably need replaced or repaired if you remove the line. I have taken the line off two cars and both failed. Corrosion....

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[mr_maxime]

I read another thread where Dave from dmcmw said to rotate the whole assembly sideways and remove radiator from the condenser. I'm going to do my best to not mess with the AC since that is working, minus a pulley.