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Thread: Conversion from an Automatic to Manual

  1. #1
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

    Posts:    196

    My VIN:    03254

    Conversion from an Automatic to Manual

    For those who don't know the canyon (for lack of better term) cut into the frame for an automatic is deeper than it is in a manual.

    Also the bolt pattern is different and an automatic has a slot whereas the manual has a big round hole for the shift linkage routing back to the transmission. Also a hole needs to be drilled in the canyon back wall for the cross gate cable.

    The first step is dealing with the height and bolt pattern difference. Here is a solution I got from Marty. Meier with Delorean Club Midwest.

    I've drilled the holes and the second picture is a test fit. It is perfect and now for cutting the hole for the linkage....

    20170312_150224.jpg20170312_153015.jpg20170312_153041.jpg20170312_150115.jpg



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  2. #2
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2016

    Location:  Washington D.C.

    Posts:    431

    Is it necessary to cut the round hole? The bottom part of the shifter only moves fore and aft, not side-to-side.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

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    Not necessarily round but certainly bigger. The automatic slot is in the wrong location and not big enough.

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  4. #4
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

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    My VIN:    03254

    Fwiw the test fitting tighten down is rock solid. The final assembly will be done with red loctite and will never come apart.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,434

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Conversion from an Automatic to Manual

    Have you already sourced a Clutch Pedal box Assembly? I also thought one of the U.K. Guys had made a adapter plate kit that allowed you to just bolt to the existing frame holes. I don't know if it still required cutting the opening in the frame.


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    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #6
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

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    My VIN:    03254

    Yes, I have a pedal box and shifter. There may be adaptor kits but I still don't see how you get away without making the cutout.

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  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    18

    Don't locktite the shifter in place. It does need to come out when the cables wear out. There are also bushings that wear.
    Last edited by Mike Griese; 03-12-2017 at 10:57 PM.
    --
    Mike

  8. #8
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

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    My VIN:    03254

    Mike loctite isn't permanent and can be broken free. I'd rather have assurance the assembly is not going to rattle lose than worry about replacing it. I went rough the whole shift mechanism and am using brand new cables and bushings so it will be years before it has to come apart again.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member dhaney's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Colorado

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    Through not rough....

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  10. #10
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

    Posts:    2,504

    My VIN:    01643

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Are you planning to weld in a new plate or bolt one in? Personally I used 2 pieces of angle iron when I did the auto -> manual conversion (process shown here: http://www.ls1delorean.com/2012/03/t...f-madness.html).

    Also I agree with others, red Loctite (262) has very few uses, especially on a personal car. You shouldn't use it anywhere that you cannot easily get a torch to because it's designed to require heat in order to be removed. Blue loctite (242) would be far more than adequate in this application.
    Last edited by Nicholas R; 03-13-2017 at 10:53 AM.

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