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Thread: Removing Transmission Cooling line from Water Pipe

  1. #1
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Removing Transmission Cooling line from Water Pipe

    I've got a small leak in my transmission coolant hose (P/N 108493) and I'm having a pretty difficult time getting the fitting loose at the water pipe connection. The fitting on the transmission loosened up relatively easy, but the one on the water pipe won't budge. I've used PB blaster, WD40 rust release penetrant, etc. - it doesn't want to budge. I could probably get it IF I took the water coolant pipe out of the car, but that involves draining the coolant, and I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Any suggestions
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd View Post
    I've got a small leak in my transmission coolant hose (P/N 108493) and I'm having a pretty difficult time getting the fitting loose at the water pipe connection. The fitting on the transmission loosened up relatively easy, but the one on the water pipe won't budge. I've used PB blaster, WD40 rust release penetrant, etc. - it doesn't want to budge. I could probably get it IF I took the water coolant pipe out of the car, but that involves draining the coolant, and I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Any suggestions
    Best to use a flare nut type open end wrench if you have one. Since you are replacing that hose anyway you can mess the fitting up and use a pipe wrench or a vise-grip. Be careful not to damage the cooler. Taking the cooler out may be the best way to do it so you can get full exposure and access. If you do remove the cooler replace the 2 coolant hoses.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
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    Tips on hose replacement and improving cooler pipe heat transfer.

    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd View Post
    I've got a small leak in my transmission coolant hose (P/N 108493) and I'm having a pretty difficult time getting the fitting loose at the water pipe connection. The fitting on the transmission loosened up relatively easy, but the one on the water pipe won't budge. I've used PB blaster, WD40 rust release penetrant, etc. - it doesn't want to budge. I could probably get it IF I took the water coolant pipe out of the car, but that involves draining the coolant, and I really don't want to do that if I don't have to. Any suggestions
    If it's the hose and not the pipe or fitting that's leaking why not just replace the hose(s)? We have a kit with the two hoses and clamps (P/N K108793G - $29.75) which will last a lot longer than the NOS hose assemblies. It's common for the adapter fitting to break loose first and for the hose to be horrendously overtightened at the adaptor. It's easier and less expensive to just replace the hoses and clamps. You can grind off the old crimp clamps and cut off the hose(s) on the car and simply use our kit or source your own.

    While you're there you may want to add our A.T. cooler pipe heat sink (P/N 111488G - $39.95). It is made of flexible aluminum finning and drops the operating temperature of the transaxle at least 20 degrees. According to our research that can double the service life of the transmission. It comes with a heat transfer compound which you apply the pipe with a brush and two stainless straps to clamp the aluminum finning directly onto the cooler. Installation takes about 15 minutes if you bother to sand the pipe slightly first which I recommend. It is simple to install, inexpensive, reliable and greatly increases the cooling surface area of the pipe. It is much safer than adding an external radiator style cooler which in our experience causes other reliability issues. It's the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your transaxle. The finning is custom made for us and we've been selling these for over 25 years with no failures.
    Rob

  4. #4
    Not really banned Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    If it's the hose and not the pipe or fitting that's leaking why not just replace the hose(s)? We have a kit with the two hoses and clamps (P/N K108793G - $29.75) which will last a lot longer than the NOS hose assemblies. It's common for the adapter fitting to break loose first and for the hose to be horrendously overtightened at the adaptor. It's easier and less expensive to just replace the hoses and clamps. You can grind off the old crimp clamps and cut off the hose(s) on the car and simply use our kit or source your own.

    While you're there you may want to add our A.T. cooler pipe heat sink (P/N 111488G - $39.95). It is made of flexible aluminum finning and drops the operating temperature of the transaxle at least 20 degrees. According to our research that can double the service life of the transmission. It comes with a heat transfer compound which you apply the pipe with a brush and two stainless straps to clamp the aluminum finning directly onto the cooler. Installation takes about 15 minutes if you bother to sand the pipe slightly first which I recommend. It is simple to install, inexpensive, reliable and greatly increases the cooling surface area of the pipe. It is much safer than adding an external radiator style cooler which in our experience causes other reliability issues. It's the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your transaxle. The finning is custom made for us and we've been selling these for over 25 years with no failures.
    Rob
    I gotta order one of those.

  5. #5
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Thanks Rob, I may add that cooling fin later on this summer. I've got the replace hose (P/N 108493) already. I picked it up in September when I went to DMCMW @ Crystal Lake. I need to replace the water temperature sensor too, and that part is also sitting on a box on my bench. I've heard it makes a mess when you pull it from the block. I may just bite the bullet and drain the coolant and work on the pipe outside of the car, and knock out both pieces at the same time.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

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