adjusted door latches, still acting up

[txdmc]

So today I re adjusted my door latches per the factory spec AGAIN.... it seems as though my lock bell crank just does not like to unlock all the way after the door is manipulated a few times. I have no preload or free play in any latches, the locks are the same no free play/pre load. The one that seems to be a PITA is the front lock rod, it seems to get hung up. I looked down in the door at the lock part and it seems to get hung up sometime when manipulating the lock. My question is can you lubricate the actual door latches/locks? or am I just being an idiot and need to keep at the adjustments. I also think I have a bad solenoid because the pin loves to go out but not retract in all the way and I noticed this also will mess with the lock rods. Is there a possibility of having a bad latch/lock bell crank? my door locks do not work electronically, I have cleaned/checked all wiring in the doors. I know the roof box can have bad wiring, I also have a rebuilt lock module (factory). I have noticed that my intertia switch looks like its been kicked by a foot at some time because its cracked wonder if its messed up some how, it has a dab of white paint on it? wonder if its the original one..... my car has just over 100k on her.

[Drive Stainless]

I haven't used a front lock rod since 2003, but that's just me. You can experiment by removing it to see if it fixes anything.

[May81DeLorean]

When my driver's door would not open, I wasn't sure if it was a latch problem or a lock problem. I used the Service Bulletin ST-10-8/81 as opposed to the instructions in the Service Manual as a guide on how the door works. I removed any rod load/tension according to the bulletin, and I also replaced the heavy solenoid with a modern plastic solenoid at that time. I also discovered that a previous owner had torn into the transparent door membrane to deal with an exterior-lock cylinder issue, and after cutting into the membrane, they left part of the plastic membrane bunched up in very close proximity to the locking bell crank and rubbing against rods. After I did those three things (remove any load, replace solenoid, remove any existing membrane), the door would then open and it locks/unlocks and functions fine - so I am not sure which of those three things solved the problem. Here is a picture of the membrane that was bunched up next to the bell crank:

IMG_20161209_082400.jpg

[David T]

So today I re adjusted my door latches per the factory spec AGAIN.... it seems as though my lock bell crank just does not like to unlock all the way after the door is manipulated a few times. I have no preload or free play in any latches, the locks are the same no free play/pre load. The one that seems to be a PITA is the front lock rod, it seems to get hung up. I looked down in the door at the lock part and it seems to get hung up sometime when manipulating the lock. My question is can you lubricate the actual door latches/locks? or am I just being an idiot and need to keep at the adjustments. I also think I have a bad solenoid because the pin loves to go out but not retract in all the way and I noticed this also will mess with the lock rods. Is there a possibility of having a bad latch/lock bell crank? my door locks do not work electronically, I have cleaned/checked all wiring in the doors. I know the roof box can have bad wiring, I also have a rebuilt lock module (factory). I have noticed that my intertia switch looks like its been kicked by a foot at some time because its cracked wonder if its messed up some how, it has a dab of white paint on it? wonder if its the original one..... my car has just over 100k on her.

Very often now I see the latches all gummed up with 30+ old grease and dirt. Makes the locks much harder to move for the linkage. When the linkage is forced it bends and gets out of adjustment. The other main problems are old, torn, "dead" door seals and the anchor (striker) pins out of adjustment. To begin you need good door seals, the latches should be removed, cleaned, and relubricated. Finally you need to adjust the anchor pins so that both latches (front and rear) hit 1st and 2nd locking positions simultaneously. NOW you can do the internal door adjustments as per the service bulletin. NEVER attempt to adjust the anchor pins to compensate for "dead" door seals to get the door to close tighter. If the door seals are bad they have to be replaced.

[Horsebox]

The one that seems to be a PITA is the front lock rod, it seems to get hung up. I looked down in the door at the lock part and it seems to get hung up sometime when manipulating the lock.

I have both my doors in bits and went through this last week when the sun was shining. You say you have no binding - what I found was my front lock rod on both doors were twisted lengthwise at slightly the wrong angle, making it a bit of an effort (bind) to twist it in order to insert into the bell crank. Length was perfect, it just needed a twist, 10 degrees max. I fixed that and now the central locking works perfectly. Might not be your problem at all, but I thought I'd mention as it affected both of my doors. Both doors had a front lock rod twisting strain which loaded the solenoid via the bellcrank.

Mark

[Horsebox]

To begin you need good door seals, the latches should be removed, cleaned, and relubricated.

Can the latches just be unscrewed from the outside front of the door without falling to bits internally? I want to do this but I'm paranoid about things falling out internally.

Sorry for the thread creep :-)

Mark

[EdR5150]

The latches can easily be removed, and won't come apart. Stick your phone in the door, and get several pictures of the rods and how they are attached to the latches before you remove them. Removing them can be tricky, and re-installation is quite difficult. While you have the latches out, I highly recommend performing the "wedgectomy" if it hasn't already been done.

I cleaned all my latches with a strong degreaser, compressed air, and lots of paper towels. I also removed the front lock rods, and secured the front locks so they will never engage. You definitely don't need two locks on each door.

Can the latches just be unscrewed from the outside front of the door without falling to bits internally? I want to do this but I'm paranoid about things falling out internally.
Mark

[Horsebox]

Sorry for the delay and thanks for the useful information. What is the "wedgectomy" and do I need health insurance for that!?

I installed a remote central locking gizmo that sits between the the stock door lock module and the harness. Took about one minute and is completely reversible. I keep going to the garage to zap unlock and lock the car, it's brilliant. No more wearing out the door key locks or scratching the stainless in the dark!

[GS450-Junkie]

I also removed the front lock rods, and secured the front locks so they will never engage. You definitely don't need two locks on each door.

When you remove the front lock rod do you remove them completely from the car? I had contemplated on leaving the rod attached to the front lock and disconnecting the rear near the bell crank. I was trying to find a place to zip tie the front lock rod in place so it was still somewhat accessible in case your needed to yank on it to open the door if need be but there doesn't seem to be a place to do this without affecting something else.

I wasn't aware you could secure the front lock so it doesn't engage again. How would I do this? That would make the front lock rod removal -out of the car scenario quite easy.

[EdR5150]

Sorry for the delay and thanks for the useful information. What is the "wedgectomy" and do I need health insurance for that!?

Sorry for the delay as well! The wedgectomy is very safe and useful! Basically the door latches have a built in "feature" where they can't be locked while they are open. I'm not sure why was feature was designed, since it can be eliminated for the better. Trying to lock the doors while open will put force on the linkages, possibly throwing them out of adjustment. The latch prevents locking with a small plastic wedge inside the latch. Just grind the stupid thing off. I've heard DMCH does all their doors like this now. Wedgectomy Instructions: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a101/...ation-new.aspx

When you remove the front lock rod do you remove them completely from the car? I had contemplated on leaving the rod attached to the front lock and disconnecting the rear near the bell crank. I was trying to find a place to zip tie the front lock rod in place so it was still somewhat accessible in case your needed to yank on it to open the door if need be but there doesn't seem to be a place to do this without affecting something else.
I wasn't aware you could secure the front lock so it doesn't engage again. How would I do this? That would make the front lock rod removal -out of the car scenario quite easy.

I've got most of this in my blog here: http://www.16908.info/?p=2843
You should be able to remove the front lock rod if you have the original solenoid setup (I think). I have Toby's lightweight actuators, which clamp onto the front lock rod. I got around this by cutting the lock rod off at the clamp so it doesn't connect to the latch. As for the lock on the front latch: drill a hole and secure the lock with some wire (seen in the blog). You can always convert it back to a "locking latch" if you want.