Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 4 5 6
Results 51 to 55 of 55

Thread: Now it won't even attempt to crank

  1. #51
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,468

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    Thanks guys. To clarify, Josh actually did replace the whole starter and rewire it when I was out there (2 years ago). Could the new one have crapped out already?

    Forgot to mention, with the key on accessory, the windows don't roll up either. Door lights still work (LEDs). Emailed Dave S. and he thought it could just be a low battery but I hadn't had any sluggish starts or anything lately. I was parked for less than 10 minutes when this happened., AFAIK didn't leave my lights on.

    (oh, one other thing - the engine died while it was idling waiting for a smog check about a week ago. It started right back up, but I never did figure out why that happened.)
    That time you stopped by and your starter wasn't even bolted in accept for a few cross-threaded standard bolts? If the starter happens to be the culprit just let us know and we will warranty it of course. Once you have verified the battery if the problem continues do the following. Put the car in first gear key off and go to back corner. Jog the car in gear to turn the engine over a bit. Back out of gear and try starting.

  2. #52
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

    Location:  The LC

    Posts:    915

    My VIN:    10907

    Thanks, everyone. Still investigating - last night my friend and I were able to get the car started with starting fluid and it seemed to be OK until I got off the freeway and then engine & electrical all died. Called AAA and had it towed back to my house, this morning battery tests at 12v but still won't crank. Listening with a stethoscope, the squealing noise is coming from here : IMG_20190831_092912964.jpg

    Mike M. said if the dash lights don't come on when I try to start, it could be a main relay, which he described as a silver relay screwed in next to the fuse box. Is that what this thing is? Why can't I find it on the schematics on

    [Edit: is it this? ]
    Last edited by DaraSue; 08-31-2019 at 01:04 PM.

  3. #53
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,204

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    Why can't I find it on the schematics on[Edit: is it this? ]
    That is #19 HERE.

    On the WS schematic, there are two, both labeled #102 "Aux Relay." You can swap them...
    Check the ground and other connections.

  4. #54
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

    Location:  The LC

    Posts:    915

    My VIN:    10907

    Mystery solved (hopefully)! My negative battery cable connector was corroded all to crap. (I'd checked the cables for tightness but hadn't actually taken them off any looked at the terminals while all of this was going on.) I took the battery to Autozone and it tested good. After cleaning up the connection and reinstalling it, it fired right up. Had to go to work so I didn't chance a real road test yet but I idled it for half an hour with the lights on and the fans cycling and the voltage tested good. Crossing my fingers that it's fixed now. Thanks again, everyone!

  5. #55
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,432

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    If it is the terminal that goes to the battery, the case is cracked because that connection was overtightened and now the seal is compromised. You should replace the battery. Side terminal connections are not supposed to corrode.
    David Teitelbaum

Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 4 5 6

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts