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Thread: Flexible Clutch Line Replacement Question

  1. #1
    APRIL 81
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    Flexible Clutch Line Replacement Question

    Hi folks. I've done a ton of searching but haven't found a clear answer...

    What all is involved in replacing the original plastic clutch line that that runs from the clutch master cylinder to the rear of the car? I am upgrading to a flexible stainless braided line. Apologies for the novice question, but this can be done without separating the frame from the body, yes?

    Is there a trick? Attach the new line to the end of the old line and fish it through?

    Any help much appreciated. Thank you!
    '86 BMW 325es
    '96 BMW M3
    '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    '81 DeLorean
    '21 Volvo XC40

  2. #2
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAZ_DMC View Post
    Hi folks. I've done a ton of searching but haven't found a clear answer...

    What all is involved in replacing the original plastic clutch line that that runs from the clutch master cylinder to the rear of the car?!
    Easiest way to get the old line out is to disconnect both ends, cut the connector off the front, and pull it out. Allow it to drain before you cut it so that it's just less messy. The replacement can be fed thru the space without taking anything apart. I suppose you could use the old one to pull the new one in but it seems to unnecessarily complicate the process.

    This is a pretty easy job on a lift, a bit more of a pain on jacks but can be done.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    I think there are a few tie-wraps holding the line (maybe that was the AC lines) but yes it can be replaced pretty easy without separation.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #4
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    The hardest part is undoing the fittings. They can get very rusty and can be a pain to take apart. If the fluid is dark and thick, figure on replacing the cylinders too. Use zip-ties to secure the new line so it doesn't rub or hang. The S/S exterior can be like a saw and if it rubs against things it can cut right through.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #5
    APRIL 81
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Easiest way to get the old line out is to disconnect both ends, cut the connector off the front, and pull it out. Allow it to drain before you cut it so that it's just less messy. The replacement can be fed thru the space without taking anything apart. I suppose you could use the old one to pull the new one in but it seems to unnecessarily complicate the process.

    This is a pretty easy job on a lift, a bit more of a pain on jacks but can be done.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I think there are a few tie-wraps holding the line (maybe that was the AC lines) but yes it can be replaced pretty easy without separation.
    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    The hardest part is undoing the fittings. They can get very rusty and can be a pain to take apart. If the fluid is dark and thick, figure on replacing the cylinders too. Use zip-ties to secure the new line so it doesn't rub or hang. The S/S exterior can be like a saw and if it rubs against things it can cut right through.
    Thanks everyone! Great info. I appreciate the quick responses. The project is under control now.
    '86 BMW 325es
    '96 BMW M3
    '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    '81 DeLorean
    '21 Volvo XC40

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