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Thread: VIN 6298's restoration

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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    VIN 6298's restoration

    I've finally got my DeLorean moved (towed) back home in the garage. Everything is either 15-20 years old from back when the engine was replaced or still a factory component. It hasn't run for at least 10+ years.

    The fuel system is removed and I need to decide if I want to keep trying to un-stick the fuel distributor plunger or get a rebuilt one. My fuel tank, pump, sender, and old lines were in really bad shape. I have a new combo pump/sender, accumulator, filter, and new lines ready to go.

    I would like to figure out if I have any engine concerns while the fuel system is torn out. I am thinking of doing a cold compression test after changing the oil, soaking things in mystery oil, and manually turning the engine to check for free movement. Maybe the plugs and drained coolant will tell me something. I do not believe anything is leaking except the oil sender because although my oil pan is coated, the old garage floor had no new oil spots. It was parked there for over a year.

    I have a ton of other work to do in the engine compartment and trying to figure out the best sequence. I could tear nearly everything out and clean up the VOD but that might be overkill. After reading several "wake up" threads, it seems there are few different ways to approach this.

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    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I ended the day with the spark plugs removed and some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. I have some rust in 2 of the plug holes but overall I was expecting to see worse. Looks like I don't have OEM plugs. After a week of adding more oil and then manually turning the crankshaft, I will do a compression test.

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    I didn't drain the oil and change the filter yet but my oil evacuator was already out for an oil change for a different car. I went ahead and got ~8 quarts out. I'll let the old oil settle to take a look tomorrow. I did not see any coolant or anything odd as it came out. The oil at the bottom of the pan was very light - translucent with a yellow/brown tint. I replaced the oil with some older bottles of Castrol 20W-50 that I was not otherwise going to use. I will drain it normally with a new filter and brand new oil when the time is right.

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    I always had an oil leak but only previously noticed it on the oil pan. It looks like it's caked on the alternator and if memory is correct the sender might be right next to it. FWIW, my alternator could never keep up with the AC on high in the Florida heat, headlights, and a non-factory radio. I can't tell if this is an original but will likely replace it eventually.

    I guess once the engine hopefully shows similar pressure in each cylinder via the compression test, I will start to replace things that are 15 years old. I guess the water pump would be something to do "while I am in there" and things are apart. I don't have much of a plan from there except to make sure hoses and belts are replaced which includes at least part of the cooling system (for now because I think I have an original radiator). Then, I will finally finish my fuel system work from a few years ago to get the satisfaction of a running engine while getting everything else road worthy.

    Tomorrow I will clean up the exterior to get some decent pictures.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Almost got the manifold off. Need to get a universal joint to get the last four bolts safely.

    My fuel mixture unit and W pipe came out as one piece. I need to get a longer T-handled 5mm torx wrench so the handle won't be in the way.

    WUR finally came off after a few days of PB blaster.

    No surprises so far. I did notice some rust inside of the rubber hose that was connected to my cracked plastic overflow bottle.

    Should be able to do a compression test this weekend.

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    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  5. #5
    Member DKDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2016

    Location:  Walnut Creek, CA

    Posts:    73

    My VIN:    00860

    Keep posting! Enjoying watching your progress.. I'm restoring 860 currently.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by DKDMC View Post
    Keep posting! Enjoying watching your progress.. I'm restoring 860 currently.
    Thanks. Hopefully I'll have a better idea about what this is going to cost me in parts in the next few weeks so I can get the real work started. Unfortunately, I think I am going to need quite a bit. I am thinking/hoping the engine is solid and then I can breathe a little easier.

    Good luck with your restoration. VIN 860? Very cool you have an early VIN.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

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