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Thread: VIN 6298's restoration

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    VIN 6298's restoration

    I've finally got my DeLorean moved (towed) back home in the garage. Everything is either 15-20 years old from back when the engine was replaced or still a factory component. It hasn't run for at least 10+ years.

    The fuel system is removed and I need to decide if I want to keep trying to un-stick the fuel distributor plunger or get a rebuilt one. My fuel tank, pump, sender, and old lines were in really bad shape. I have a new combo pump/sender, accumulator, filter, and new lines ready to go.

    I would like to figure out if I have any engine concerns while the fuel system is torn out. I am thinking of doing a cold compression test after changing the oil, soaking things in mystery oil, and manually turning the engine to check for free movement. Maybe the plugs and drained coolant will tell me something. I do not believe anything is leaking except the oil sender because although my oil pan is coated, the old garage floor had no new oil spots. It was parked there for over a year.

    I have a ton of other work to do in the engine compartment and trying to figure out the best sequence. I could tear nearly everything out and clean up the VOD but that might be overkill. After reading several "wake up" threads, it seems there are few different ways to approach this.

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    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I ended the day with the spark plugs removed and some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. I have some rust in 2 of the plug holes but overall I was expecting to see worse. Looks like I don't have OEM plugs. After a week of adding more oil and then manually turning the crankshaft, I will do a compression test.

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    I didn't drain the oil and change the filter yet but my oil evacuator was already out for an oil change for a different car. I went ahead and got ~8 quarts out. I'll let the old oil settle to take a look tomorrow. I did not see any coolant or anything odd as it came out. The oil at the bottom of the pan was very light - translucent with a yellow/brown tint. I replaced the oil with some older bottles of Castrol 20W-50 that I was not otherwise going to use. I will drain it normally with a new filter and brand new oil when the time is right.

    2017-03-25 19.54.58.jpg

    I always had an oil leak but only previously noticed it on the oil pan. It looks like it's caked on the alternator and if memory is correct the sender might be right next to it. FWIW, my alternator could never keep up with the AC on high in the Florida heat, headlights, and a non-factory radio. I can't tell if this is an original but will likely replace it eventually.

    I guess once the engine hopefully shows similar pressure in each cylinder via the compression test, I will start to replace things that are 15 years old. I guess the water pump would be something to do "while I am in there" and things are apart. I don't have much of a plan from there except to make sure hoses and belts are replaced which includes at least part of the cooling system (for now because I think I have an original radiator). Then, I will finally finish my fuel system work from a few years ago to get the satisfaction of a running engine while getting everything else road worthy.

    Tomorrow I will clean up the exterior to get some decent pictures.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Almost got the manifold off. Need to get a universal joint to get the last four bolts safely.

    My fuel mixture unit and W pipe came out as one piece. I need to get a longer T-handled 5mm torx wrench so the handle won't be in the way.

    WUR finally came off after a few days of PB blaster.

    No surprises so far. I did notice some rust inside of the rubber hose that was connected to my cracked plastic overflow bottle.

    Should be able to do a compression test this weekend.

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    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  5. #5
    Member DKDMC's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2016

    Location:  Walnut Creek, CA

    Posts:    73

    My VIN:    00860

    Keep posting! Enjoying watching your progress.. I'm restoring 860 currently.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by DKDMC View Post
    Keep posting! Enjoying watching your progress.. I'm restoring 860 currently.
    Thanks. Hopefully I'll have a better idea about what this is going to cost me in parts in the next few weeks so I can get the real work started. Unfortunately, I think I am going to need quite a bit. I am thinking/hoping the engine is solid and then I can breathe a little easier.

    Good luck with your restoration. VIN 860? Very cool you have an early VIN.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Got the manifold off last night.

    This is my first time into the VOD and nothing jumps out at me. Any comments?

    I was mostly looking for coolant that might have rotted the block. I've never seen it before I don't think I see anything like that here. It's just dirty. PB blaster didn't help that situation as it dripped down over the past few days.

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    Next up... daily marvel's oil into the cylinders and then I will use a breaker bar to turn the engine manually to see if anything holds it up. Then the compression test. Not sure what to do after that. Maybe it's clean up, remove all hoses, belts, and vacuum lines. I know I need to figure out the oil sender leak. I might drain the cooling system and verify if I have an original radiator or not. Then maybe put it on jack stands to check out some remaining items.

    After that I guess I am buying parts.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  8. #8
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    The rot happens in those deep casting holes underneath the coolant y-pipe. You won't be able to inspect them very well with it in the way. Remove it, clean the holes out thoroughly.
    -Mike

    My engine twists my frame.

    1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
    1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
    2005 Elise, stock
    2016 Chevy Cruze

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I need to drain the cooling system first, right? I think there's coolant in those hoses.

    edit: otherwise I assume coolant is going to leak exactly where I don't want it.
    Last edited by Bill6298; 03-29-2017 at 04:35 PM.
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2013

    Location:  North Florida

    Posts:    183

    My VIN:    6298

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Apparently I did not search the archives well enough. I got a small amount of coolant out by disconnecting the lower left hose but I need to find the exact locations of the drain plugs. I'm not even sure that will make a difference with the water pump and if I'll end up with coolant on the engine block anyway. I loosened the hoses on the Y pipe and coolant immediately began to seep out. So, I cleaned up and will revisit this tomorrow.

    I did notice what looks to be a repair to the engine block right where the Y pipe connects to the water pump. Like Mike said, I need to get that Y pipe off to get a better look.

    2017-03-29 19.40.35.jpg
    Bill

    VIN 6298 - '81 Gray Auto

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