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Thread: How To: Remove bushings from Upper Control Arm using simple hardware

  1. #1
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    How To: Remove bushings from Upper Control Arm using simple hardware

    The Upper Control Arm bushings can be difficult to remove without distorting the UCA's sheet metal flanges and require just the right adapters to do the job. As luck would have it, some simple chain link hardware from Home Depot that I had laying around turned out to be of the almost perfect dimensions to do the job. Do as follows:

    - Spray down the bushings with a penetrating lube, such as 5-56. The longer you let it set, the better.
    - Get one of these: 2-3/8 in. Galvanized Steel Tension Band and beat it into a somewhat round shape. Hammer it in between the two flanges.
    - On the side of the UCA to which you are wanting the bushing to come out, use parts of this: 2-3/8 in. Chain Link Corner Wood Adapter Clamp around the outside of the OD of the bushing.
    - To press out the bushing, use the largest socket possible (I believe I used a 23 mm socket).
    - Clamp it together in a press (or, as in my case, a regular vise).
    - Press that sucker out!

    I worked flawlessly for me. Check out the following pictures and you probably see how it all comes together:
    2017-04-02 15.58.53.jpg2017-04-02 16.51.14.jpg
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
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    Thats very clever!

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    A few months ago I was working on doing this myself, and I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot and bought the pieces that are listed here - and it turns out that they must have switched supplies or something, because they don't fit. They were actually at least 1/4" too thin to be used.

    Luckily, I have a solution! I measured the inside of my upper control arms, and found that they are just a hair shy of 1" apart. My local Lowes's (and probably HD) sell 1" square tube stock super cheap. I got the steel stuff because I wanted to be able to weld it, but the aluminum stuff will work fine. Cut it down from the 3' or 4' long section into a couple pieces around 6"-12" long, remove the burs, and stick one on either side of the bushing, with the majority sticking "out" as a handle. Worked a treat! I found that the sizing of the arms is inconsistent, so sometimes I had to give them a smack or two with a hammer to get seated, and other times they slid in and had to be held in place. Usually after pressing I would have to use some force to get them back out.

  4. #4
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    I pressed out the old bushings and replaced them with poly bushings on my car a few years back. Here was the solution I came up with at the time. It's just a couple of U shaped plates sized to fit around the bushing.

    The washers sandwiched between are there to provide a gap that allows the plates to be easily removed once the bushing is pressed in without scraping up the powder coat. The washers get pulled out first and the plates can be removed freely.

    On the bottom side of the arm is a large socket that allows the bushing to pass thru.








  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Just want to add another option here... I'm more of a woodworker than I am a machinist so I cut a spacer block out of the densest hardwood I had on hand (sapele) and routed a chamfer on one edge so the spacer could seat fully against the belled out section of the control arm. I had my control arms powder coated and the wood did no damage to the finish and was easily pulled out when done. From there all the methods above as far as using sockets and a vice/shop press apply. Only other thing I did was slightly chamfer the edge of the new bushing using my belt sander so it can more easily locate itself when coming through the inner side of the control arm. It's very easy for the bushing to start to go through crooked and then bend the control arm when trying to orient itself through the hole.

    Wood block:


    Block inserted:


    Bushing edge chamfered:


    Final assembly:
    Todd, VIN 1561

    http://1561project.com

  6. #6
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,468

    My VIN:    6125

    That wood block spacer turned out great! I find it fascinating to see what different people come up with to solve a problem. Good thinking adding that little chamfer to the bushing too. I remember it being a little tricky to get the bushings started straight when I did mine.

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