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Thread: Driver door does not open fully

  1. #1
    Senior Member rickjames8's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Northern Virginia, near Washington DC.

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    Driver door does not open fully

    I always sorta duck as I get out of my car. I just figured that's how the doors were. Then I was installing a speaker on the passenger side today and as I opened the passenger door, I noticed how nice and tall it opens - no ducking needed. The passenger door opens 4" higher than the drivers. With both doors open, this is very noticeable.

    Neither door goes up fully on it's own. They both go to a halfway point and I need to push them the rest of the way. I have brand new Stabilius struts (from Hervey) installed and I figured a torsion bar setting was in order at some point. Once I push them fully open, they do stay up.

    What's stopping the driver door from going any further is the strut being at full extension. I've measured both struts and they seem to open up the exact same amount.

    I can't immediately see a fix for this, as it looks like there is no adjustment where the struts attach. Other than moving the door closer to the outside of the car (and I've read bad things about messing with the door mounts) I can't see how I could fix this. Besides, when the doors are closed, they look pretty even. Unless I were to get a strut that was 1/2" longer on full extension?

    20170402_124026.jpg 20170402_124042.jpg 20170402_124252.jpg

    -Rick

  2. #2
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2016

    Location:  Washington D.C.

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    Measure from the strut ball stud to the rear door hinge on both sides and compare. I'll bet that your driver's door bracket is further away. You can be sure that those factory workers were putting these cars together with the help of Mr. Jameson.

    I had the same problem, see here:
    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater


    My solution was to buy these from DPI:
    http://www.deloreanindustries.com/lo...kit-stainless/

    Then cut off the nut from the driver-side bracket and move it 1/2" closer toward the centerline of the car and re-weld it. Problem solved!
    Last edited by Drive Stainless; 04-02-2017 at 10:30 PM.
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    Welding services also (all metals)!
    http://www.drivestainless.com

  3. #3
    Member
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    Seems to me your struts are also not set to your current torsion bar setting. I had that same issue with stabilus struts - some of them were too weak (opened 2/3 of the way), others slammed the doors at the top. My options were either tighten the torsion bar settings or try different struts. PJ Grady's struts solved the issue. It would be good if you shared pictures of the metal bolster where your strut anchors to the car. Maybe its bent?
    Last edited by dmcnc; 04-02-2017 at 11:06 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  NY

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    take your rear finisher off or put a flashlight up to it and have a buddy open your door an watch for movement, worst case scenario you may have a roof box starting to separate. Definitely worth atleast checking if you haven't already.

    Jimmy

  5. #5
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Happy Valley, OR

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    Do not adjust your torsion bars... If you open the doors and they don't go all the way up but will go up and stay up with manual help then your torsion bars are fine and your struts are not. In other words, once you lift it open by hand - if it stays up your struts are bad.

    Next test. Remove both struts and set them side by side on the bench to make sure they are both the same length. I put some of John's struts on my hood and they were much shorter than the original ones I removed. It's possible he accidentally sent you two different lengths. If they are the same length then, as previously mentioned, you are enjoying the quirk of a hand built car OR the roof box has come unglued. As I understand it, it's not uncommon for one door to open less than another. Mine does and I know my roof box is tight because I screwed it down myself.

    Long story short... too many times perfectly good cars are damaged by immediately adjusting the torsion bars. Do it only as a last resort if absolutely necessary.

    Cheers
    Steven
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    Driver door does not open fully

    Bent lower ball stud plate and incorrect lower mount positioning (hand built) underbody drilling fixture(s) is the reason for the irregular door heights at full extension. My car has the same geometry issue.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DMC5180; 04-03-2017 at 09:09 AM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    As mentioned look into the strut mount position and length of the strut.

    I highly doubt it is a roof box issue, and even more so a torsion bar issue.

  8. #8
    Senior Member rickjames8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drive Stainless View Post
    Measure from the strut ball stud to the rear door hinge on both sides and compare. I'll bet that your driver's door bracket is further away. You can be sure that those factory workers were putting these cars together with the help of Mr. Jameson.

    My solution was to buy these from DPI:
    http://www.deloreanindustries.com/lo...kit-stainless/ Problem solved!
    Matt- thanks for the advice. I think I will order those parts, but put it on the back burner. It's only really bothered me since I noticed the passenger one.

    Quote Originally Posted by dmcnc View Post
    Seems to me your struts are also not set to your current torsion bar setting. I had that same issue with stabilus struts - some of them were too weak (opened 2/3 of the way), others slammed the doors at the top. My options were either tighten the torsion bar settings or try different struts. PJ Grady's struts solved the issue. It would be good if you shared pictures of the metal bolster where your strut anchors to the car. Maybe its bent?
    I stumbled across another thread here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?94...l=1#post154168 where in the last paragraph, this guy suggests that his research leads him to believe that at the price Hervey sells them at, they can't be genuine. So it's possible my new struts are not doing the trick.

    The lower metal anchor indeed points out a little bit. I could go with the fix above, or with the Jeremy Clarkson idea of a hammer fixes everything....

    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    Do not adjust your torsion bars... If you open the doors and they don't go all the way up but will go up and stay up with manual help then your torsion bars are fine and your struts are not. In other words, once you lift it open by hand - if it stays up your struts are bad.
    Good to know. I'll keep the bars where they are!

    Quote Originally Posted by mluder View Post
    Next test. Remove both struts and set them side by side on the bench to make sure they are both the same length.
    I pushed the doors both to their full extension and measured, and both came to the same length, to the millimeter, so I'm confident they're the same.

    So I think the takeaway here is:
    1. Dont touch the bars.
    2. Get 'real' struts.
    3. Get mending plates, or;
    4. Enjoy the quirk of a handcrafted auto.

    Thanks!!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickjames8 View Post
    4. Enjoy the quirk of a handcrafted auto.
    At some point, you realize this is a requirement, not an option.
    LOL

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