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Thread: Tracking down a short in the wiring??

  1. #1
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Tracking down a short in the wiring??

    Noticed this weekend on my way home from work, I had no tail lights on the LH side of the car. Thought it might be a loose bulb, so I proceeded to get the screw driver out to remove the tail light assembly. While I was back there, I noticed the left side license plate light was out too. Walking around the car, it's the entire left side. No left side marker lights and no parking light in the left side of the front bumper. Turn signals and brake lights are fine. All of this points back to FUSE #2. I pulled the interior parcel shelf panel to expose the fuse block,and indeed fuse 2 was blown. When I replaced the blown one for a new one, the new one immediately blew. Headlights and everything was on at the time.

    The only electrical work I've done recently is to replace the left front fender side marker light socket that was corroded. The original bulb had rusted in place and I simply ordered a new socket and spliced it in. I haven't checked to see if anything behind the fender has come loose, but I seriously doubt it. It was all heat shrinked pretty good when I replaced it. I did have the car up at DMC Midwest about two weeks ago having some service work done, but none of it was electrical.

    Any clues of how to find this?
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  2. #2
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    unplug the black molex connector from the engine bay bulkhead. That will eliminate 50% of the car (entire rear). You can always use a multi meter across the fuse terminals if you want to save fuses.

    If it blows again, the problem is up front. If it doesn't, it's most likely somewhere in the rear fascia.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  3. #3
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    You didn't mention if the left side was working after you replaced the side marker socket? My money is typically on the last item repaired as being the culprit but I don't know enough details on this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iflights View Post
    You didn't mention if the left side was working after you replaced the side marker socket? My money is typically on the last item repaired as being the culprit but I don't know enough details on this.
    Without special tools it can be difficult to find the actual short. One tip is to remove the fuse and temporarily wire in a bulb. If you have a short to ground the bulb will light up. Go searching and when you find the problem the light will go out. Typically it will not be the wiring harness itself, it is often a device connected to it like a light socket. First thing to do is unplug the taillight board. Examine each bulb. if someone put the wrong type bulb in or installed a bulb incorrectly it can cause a short. Some of the bulbs have 2 pins, each at a different height. If the bulb is installed the wrong way it can cause a short. It is possible the harness got pinched somewhere. The divide and conquer method in post #2 is a good strategy.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #5
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    You didn't mention if the left side was working after you replaced the side marker socket?
    I thought the same thing, but I looked back through some photos of the Brad Paisley video shoot I did with the car several weeks ago, and everything was lit up. So whatever has happened, has happened in the last two weeks.
    I'll definitely unplug the black bulkhead connector to eliminate half the potential issue. Never thought about doing that.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  6. #6
    Senior Member Gregadeth's Avatar
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    Same thing happened to me when I was replacing all my lights with LEDs. It was the wiring at one of the license plate lights (which is pretty flimsy) so you may wanna check that also.

  7. #7
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Ok.... Unplugged the black molex connector from the rear bulkhead and the fuse still blew. Plugged the rear back in and proceeded​ to the front of the car.

    I unscrewed ​the left front fender marker light and unwrapped the electrical tape from the leads. No exposed wires in there. Cut the heat shrink wrap off the marker lamp socket leads and everything was good there.

    Next, I put a light up clip on tester into the #2 fuse slot. It only lights up if the headlights or parking lights are on via the dash board switch. Only other culprit is the bumper light. Turn signals work fine.

    While my car was at DMC Midwest a couple of weeks ago, they also replaced the steering column bushing. Is it possible that they snagged something in the process?
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  8. #8
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Angry

    Second report from the garage ...

    Completely removed the new marker lamp socket from the car. No effect. Still blowing the fuse. Unscrewed the turn signal light from the bumper and removed the bulb. Didn't make a difference... still blew another fuse.

    Twisted the LED bulb back into the turn signal socket and turned on the hazard lights. All of those work fine. I'm completely stumped.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  9. #9
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Drop the washer bottle and unplug the molex there. That should eliminate all the front. If you keep blowing fuses its in your harness.

    Are you running the factory headlight switch? they are prone to failing.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  10. #10
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    I'll try that next. I need to replace the washer pump while I'm there anyway.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

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