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Thread: How would describe what normal delorean steering feels like?

  1. #21
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    2,106

    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Replacing the steering rack is pretty simple, it's held down by two brackets with two studs each. The biggest issues are getting the tie rod to drop out of the knuckle, and then sometimes getting the rubber bushings that are on the rack in place to bolt the rack down. If you're going to replace the rack, I'd suggest buying the rubber bushings 108151 & 105843 along with new brackets. If yours are rusty the studs can snap and they're cheap enough to just replace. Get new tie rod ends. You will need an alignment after replacing tie rod ends. Before you begin, spray some penetrant on the steering u joints so it can slide off the rack without trouble. It can be made easier by removing the bolt pinching the u joint closed, and wedging in a flat head screwdriver to open the divide up. Also, you should check the condition of the steering column bushing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redsquall View Post
    Thank you. I'll try this and report back. What amount of work is this for a capable, but non-expert? Is this something a good local non speciality shop can do? Does it require alignment again?
    -----Dan B.

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2015

    Posts:    293

    Thanks! How much time do you think this takes consider the normal crap that happens?


    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Replacing the steering rack is pretty simple, it's held down by two brackets with two studs each. The biggest issues are getting the tie rod to drop out of the knuckle, and then sometimes getting the rubber bushings that are on the rack in place to bolt the rack down. If you're going to replace the rack, I'd suggest buying the rubber bushings 108151 & 105843 along with new brackets. If yours are rusty the studs can snap and they're cheap enough to just replace. Get new tie rod ends. You will need an alignment after replacing tie rod ends. Before you begin, spray some penetrant on the steering u joints so it can slide off the rack without trouble. It can be made easier by removing the bolt pinching the u joint closed, and wedging in a flat head screwdriver to open the divide up. Also, you should check the condition of the steering column bushing.
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

  3. #23
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,470

    My VIN:    6125

    If you're interested I've got a few photos from my steering rack rebuild in an album here:

    http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=160

    The photos show the passenger side plastic bushing (grey nylatron cylinder shape) that tends to fail and can also contribute to slop. As others have already said inspecting the steering shaft u-joints is probably the best place to start though. From there I'd check the upper and lower ball joints on the front suspension for play. You can do this just by jacking up the front of the car and trying to wiggle each wheel with your hands. They should not be free to move around at all. If your U-joints are OK and the front suspension is not to blame then it's probably the rack. If you're not comfortable rebuilding it yourself I'd send it to Rob to have it rebuilt. I rebuilt mine using his reproduction nylon bushings (white in the photos above) and so far so good.

    To rebuild it yourself there is this PDF which is helpful
    http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/S...ing%20Rack.pdf

    or this youtube video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffLRDUxevPA

    Just swapping the rack can be done in a couple of hours if you've got all the parts on hand. To remove the rack it's just four nuts that hold the rack brackets in place and two nuts on the tie rod ends. You'll have to remove the steering shaft too which is just two pinch bolts a the U-joints on the ends.

    To rebuild the rack is probably another couple of hours if you're slow and methodical like I was.
    Last edited by Mark D; 04-25-2017 at 02:24 PM.

  4. #24
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    990

    Like warm apple pie.

  5. #25
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    33

    Work your way from the steering wheel to the front tires before you start throwing parts at the car. The parts catalog on the DMC website is a handy reference for sorting stuff like this out. As mentioned earlier, remove the access panel under the carpet in the front compartment. If you can work a screwdriver, you can handle this. The panel may be held down by some weatherstrip/selaant, so you may need to pry it off. You should see the end of the steering column, the lower steering shaft and associated u-joints, and the top of the steering rack. Observe the mechanism as an assistant works the steering wheel. Look for any movement in parts between the steering column and the steering rack.

    If the lower shaft doesn't move, you have a problem in the steering column. Check the nut and splines holding the steering wheel to the steering shaft. You need to remove the center pad to see this.

    If the lower shaft moves but the steering rack shaft does not, you have a lower shaft issue. There are splines at three places if you have an original rack - at the end of the steering column/top of the lower shaft u-joint, at the 2nd u-joint, and at the steering rack shaft. The splines allow for some adjustment between the steering column and the rack, but they should not be free to move up and down once adjusted properly. The bits are held together by pinch bolts. If the shafts have rusted and the bolts worked loose, there could be slop in the splined joints. Try tightening everything up and see if that makes any improvements. If that doesn't help, you will need a new lower shaft. The new ones are stainless and eliminate the middle splines. Nice parts.

    If you see the short shaft on the steering rack rotating but the tires not moving, you need to have your rack rebuilt or replaced. They should be lubricated every now and then, and if the lubricant has leaked out or solidified over the years, you can wear the rack and or pinion. There is some adjustment to take up some of the slack, but not much.
    --
    Mike

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jan 2015

    Posts:    293

    Thanks guys! Excited to get this fixed. If I only replace the rack and don't need new tie rod ends- would I need alignment? (Just got alignment)
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

  7. #27
    Young Padawan With The DeLorean kings1527's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Oak Park, CA

    Posts:    984

    My VIN:    6575

    Quote Originally Posted by Redsquall View Post
    Thanks guys! Excited to get this fixed. If I only replace the rack and don't need new tie rod ends- would I need alignment? (Just got alignment)
    Yes, you would because you'd have to swap out the new tie rod ends onto the new rack. It doesn't take much to have improper alignment and toe in.

    Alex Abdalla
    6575

    Late 1981, Grey 5-speed, 75k miles. Built 11/11/81

    A stock-look with modern, reliable technology.

    A full restoration with step-by-step "what I did" is in progress at www.delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com

  8. #28
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

    Location:  The LC

    Posts:    1,057

    My VIN:    10907

    Aside from its SR-71 turning radius, it feels pretty much like my other car (87 CRX, no power steering). There isn't a noticeable amount of play or looseness in it. I just had my steering rack replaced last year and it was before I picked up the car so IDK how it was before but Dave @ MW said it was pretty bad.

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,511

    My VIN:    4519

    Quote Originally Posted by SamHill View Post
    Like warm apple pie.
    Yes!

  10. #30
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

    Posts:    2,440

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by cdrusn View Post
    The front suspension was designed by LOTUS so it is well made for handling.:
    That is a bit of an assumption to make.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
    [email protected]
    lsdelorean.com
    I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.

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