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Thread: Hot water valve

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Posts:    166

    Mode switch connections diagram

    Here is the mode switch diagram thanks to Ron :

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?80...ions-Functions

  2. #12
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Mebane, NC

    Posts:    346

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Quote Originally Posted by JETS 81 DMC View Post
    Here is the mode switch diagram thanks to Ron :

    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?80...ions-Functions
    Cool, I just found that in one of my manuals. Had a couple lines mixed up from some previous work when the PO owned it. Got the recirculating flap to open slightly but the hot water valve is still not moving. Going to trace that line from the console to the valve and see if I have a cracked line or something.
    It works if I put a vacuum right on it. So the valve should be alright.

  3. #13
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Mebane, NC

    Posts:    346

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Ok anyone know where the A/C vacuum tank is located? Part number 100764

  4. #14
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    Inside the LH pontoon. Access by removing the vapor canister plate. You can see two nyloc nuts holding the vacuum tank it to the engine compartment wall.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  5. #15
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Mebane, NC

    Posts:    346

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Inside the LH pontoon. Access by removing the vapor canister plate. You can see two nyloc nuts holding the vacuum tank it to the engine compartment wall.

    Oh ok, so in front of the charcoal canister then?

  6. #16
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by hippieman9 View Post
    Oh ok, so in front of the charcoal canister then?
    Yep! Remove the canister and reach inside toward the front of the car. It's pretty big - you can't miss it.

    Well, it's not as big as those repainted Folger's cans that Ford used to use, but it's still pretty big.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  7. #17
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Mebane, NC

    Posts:    346

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Yep! Remove the canister and reach inside toward the front of the car. It's pretty big - you can't miss it.

    Well, it's not as big as those repainted Folger's cans that Ford used to use, but it's still pretty big.
    LOL, OK cool thank you. I will check that.

  8. #18
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Location:  Madison, MS

    Posts:    87

    My VIN:    3455

    Quote Originally Posted by hippieman9 View Post
    Cool, I just found that in one of my manuals. Had a couple lines mixed up from some previous work when the PO owned it. Got the recirculating flap to open slightly but the hot water valve is still not moving. Going to trace that line from the console to the valve and see if I have a cracked line or something.
    It works if I put a vacuum right on it. So the valve should be alright.
    I just got my vacuum lines sorted earlier this week. To make sure the mode switch diaphragm was working, I took out the radio and unplugged the rubber fitting from the back of the mode switch. I hooked my vacuum tester to port 1 on the mode switch and felt by hand to see which ports were pulling vacuum for each mode setting. Using the mode switch diagram from the workshop manual, I logged what each port did on each setting and was able to rule out an issue with the diaphragm.

    Next I connected the tester to each port on the rubber fitting to make sure each individual hose was actuating the correct flaps. This is where I determined a PO had mixed up some of the hoses. My recirc vent and heater valve were only opening on defrost, and remaining closed on Max. Swapping those solved my problem.

    Since the recirc vent and heater valve are tee-d off the same port behind the console and they seem to be getting weak vacuum, you might want to hook up your tester to each line individually from the tee. That way you can confirm which branch has a potential leak. If it's the recirc line, that might save you the trouble of digging through the center console and pontoon.

  9. #19
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2018

    Location:  Mebane, NC

    Posts:    346

    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Quote Originally Posted by CriticalB View Post
    I just got my vacuum lines sorted earlier this week. To make sure the mode switch diaphragm was working, I took out the radio and unplugged the rubber fitting from the back of the mode switch. I hooked my vacuum tester to port 1 on the mode switch and felt by hand to see which ports were pulling vacuum for each mode setting. Using the mode switch diagram from the workshop manual, I logged what each port did on each setting and was able to rule out an issue with the diaphragm.

    Next I connected the tester to each port on the rubber fitting to make sure each individual hose was actuating the correct flaps. This is where I determined a PO had mixed up some of the hoses. My recirc vent and heater valve were only opening on defrost, and remaining closed on Max. Swapping those solved my problem.

    Since the recirc vent and heater valve are tee-d off the same port behind the console and they seem to be getting weak vacuum, you might want to hook up your tester to each line individually from the tee. That way you can confirm which branch has a potential leak. If it's the recirc line, that might save you the trouble of digging through the center console and pontoon.
    Yes Good Idea, I was thinking of pulling vacuum before the Tee to first see if they both work, then do each one individually to see if maybe I have a bad line. The Recirc flap only seems to open slightly when set to Max now since I swapped the 2 hoses that were wrong. Mine had Position 1 and 3 reversed . I want to check the canister in the pontoon as well, because The hot water valve doesn't move at all and I would like to make sure that is hooked up correctly, I am just wondering if maybe something is wrong there causing a low vacuum? in turn not closing the hot water valve.

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

    Posts:    886

    My VIN:    2691

    vacum

    Check to see if the rubber plug on the vac chamber
    is crumbled and cracked...mine was

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