Here is the mode switch diagram thanks to Ron :
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?80...ions-Functions
Posts: 166
Here is the mode switch diagram thanks to Ron :
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?80...ions-Functions
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
Cool, I just found that in one of my manuals. Had a couple lines mixed up from some previous work when the PO owned it. Got the recirculating flap to open slightly but the hot water valve is still not moving. Going to trace that line from the console to the valve and see if I have a cracked line or something.
It works if I put a vacuum right on it. So the valve should be alright.
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
Ok anyone know where the A/C vacuum tank is located? Part number 100764
Inside the LH pontoon. Access by removing the vapor canister plate. You can see two nyloc nuts holding the vacuum tank it to the engine compartment wall.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 87
My VIN: 3455
I just got my vacuum lines sorted earlier this week. To make sure the mode switch diaphragm was working, I took out the radio and unplugged the rubber fitting from the back of the mode switch. I hooked my vacuum tester to port 1 on the mode switch and felt by hand to see which ports were pulling vacuum for each mode setting. Using the mode switch diagram from the workshop manual, I logged what each port did on each setting and was able to rule out an issue with the diaphragm.
Next I connected the tester to each port on the rubber fitting to make sure each individual hose was actuating the correct flaps. This is where I determined a PO had mixed up some of the hoses. My recirc vent and heater valve were only opening on defrost, and remaining closed on Max. Swapping those solved my problem.
Since the recirc vent and heater valve are tee-d off the same port behind the console and they seem to be getting weak vacuum, you might want to hook up your tester to each line individually from the tee. That way you can confirm which branch has a potential leak. If it's the recirc line, that might save you the trouble of digging through the center console and pontoon.
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 346
My VIN: 06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a
Yes Good Idea, I was thinking of pulling vacuum before the Tee to first see if they both work, then do each one individually to see if maybe I have a bad line. The Recirc flap only seems to open slightly when set to Max now since I swapped the 2 hoses that were wrong. Mine had Position 1 and 3 reversed . I want to check the canister in the pontoon as well, because The hot water valve doesn't move at all and I would like to make sure that is hooked up correctly, I am just wondering if maybe something is wrong there causing a low vacuum? in turn not closing the hot water valve.
Location: Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111
Posts: 886
My VIN: 2691
Check to see if the rubber plug on the vac chamber
is crumbled and cracked...mine was