Flywheel/Bellhousing Offset

[bdmiko]

For the past couple years I've been slowly rebuilding my Delorean and in the process I am converting it to electric. Yes, another electric Delorean. I've got lots of pictures and some day may create a thread outlining the build if anyone is interested.

For several reasons I have decided to keep the clutch and I'm finally to the point where I am ready to bolt the motor up to the transmission. However I think there is one more adjustment needed before it is done.

Before removing the flywheel from the engine I measure the distance between the surface of the flywheel and the surface of the motor where it bolts to the bellhousing. Right now this distance is about .1 inches smaller on my new adapter than it was on the original engine. This is the distance shown below:
FlywheelToAdapter.jpg

How close should this be to the original distance? Is this as important as the flywheel step?

[Josh]

I would give it a try and see how it works. I think you can get away with it.

Just to give your measurement a double check, the value I used when designing my flywheel for the flywheel clutch running surface to the bellhousing face was 23.2mm or 0.913".

You can hook up the slave cylinder to a small hydraulic hand pump (or simply plumb it to the master cylinder and use the pedal) to run things though the motions and ensure the clutch is properly disengaging.

Worst case scenerio you could machine 0.1" off the bellhousing on the engine side. Or install a spacer between the "crank flange" (whatever the equivalent is in your case!) and the flywheel.

I would really like to see pictures of your build, sounds very cool.

Sorry for editing the response. I understood the issue backwards!

[Josh]

To comment on the flywheel step is very important as to give the proper clamping force from the pressure plate. The delorean setup has a decent sized step (0.5mm), it is important you retain this or the clutch will most certainly slip.

[bdmiko]

Just to give your measurement a double check, the value I used when designing my flywheel for the flywheel clutch running surface to the bellhousing face was 23.2mm or 0.913".

You can hook up the slave cylinder to a small hydraulic hand pump (or simply plumb it to the master cylinder and use the pedal) to run things though the motions and ensure the clutch is properly disengaging.

Worst case scenerio you could machine 0.1" off the bellhousing on the engine side. Or install a spacer between the "crank flange" (whatever the equivalent is in your case!) and the flywheel.

I would really like to see pictures of your build, sounds very cool.
!

Just testing it makes sense but unfortunately I don't have a hydraulic hand pump and the new clutch master is not installed in the car yet. When I measured the flywheel surface to the motor surface I got .93". Actually it was just under .93 on one side and just over on the other side so I could not get an exact measurement and had to settle for .93.

The motor adapter consists of 2 plates and I can shave one of the them down. I'll probably go with your measurement of .913 since I can always remove more if that causes problems.

To comment on the flywheel step is very important as to give the proper clamping force from the pressure plate. The delorean setup has a decent sized step (0.5mm), it is important you retain this or the clutch will most certainly slip.

The flywheel has been resurfaced and the step looks good. But since the starter ring has been removed the flywheel will probably need to be balanced again. I'll know more once I spin up the motor a little faster.

I would really like to see pictures of your build, sounds very cool.
!

There are a lot of pictures of the build. I'll try to make some time later this week to post some.