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Thread: Door seal installation help

  1. #1
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    Location:  Ontario, Canada

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    My VIN:    3937

    Door seal installation help

    I'm having trouble getting a new pair of door seals installed and was looking for help or suggestions.

    The door seals I got this time around are these from the UK club: https://www.deloreango.com/ca/inner-door-seals.html

    Their website looks to have changed recently, so I think this is the right link.

    The seals are nice and appear to be of good material. They go on fine too. The problem I'm finding is that they don't compress in the same manner as the originals and so this extra material is preventing my door (passenger side is the only one I've worked on so far) from closing all the way and engaging that second latching position.

    I get the impression it is down towards the lower half of the door frame where the main interference is, but that's a guess as it's hard to tell when you're pushing on the door from the outside and can't see exactly where it comes into contact with the seal. I'd say it's likely the spot in the lower rear corner just below the striker pin where once the door is almost all the way closed, you are pushing against the seal horizontally. Not sure though.

    I can see a slim line of daylight if I look from inside the car from the driver's seat, straight along the bottom edge of the door, above the sill. That's why I got thinking it was in the corner near the rear striker pin since it closes almost all of the way without issue and then it's like the door is now too big to go into the opening of the door frame and you see it right at that lower spot.

    The seal appears to be all the way onto the edge ok and they stand straight up as mentioned in that "Dremmel down the edges" guide. I have never Dremmeled down the fiberglas edges on my car, yet previous door seals have torn over time at the problem corners up top like many other cars do, so maybe that's not right either. My door on the passenger side has always had more of a clunk closing than a smooth one and it tends to be cock-eyed enough in the hinges to want to bump into the rear striker pin area. You can see where the screw heads from the rear latch on the door have scratched the fiberglas on the door frame. That last inch or so as the door closes usually has the striker pin bumping into the inside of the latch and "moving" or pivoting the door slightly forward. I suspect the hinges need a small adjustment, but have not done this myself for fear of fouling up a torsion bar. The new seal may be just a little too new and tacky or stiff and won't let it do that small shift. Again, just guesses, not sure.

    I did put the seal on originally as suggested with some silicone grease and then leave the door closed overnight. Not sure what I'm missing, but if you've got any ideas of your own, please share.
    One damn minute Admiral...


  2. #2
    DeLorean Club UK arranj's Avatar
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    Did you bang them on hard with a rubber mallet? (I know you say you think they are fully on, but I have to ask ) Are you able to post a photo of the offending area (door open) so we can have a look at it?

  3. #3
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Posting your vin in your signature would make answering any questions you may have in the future easier to answer. For example seal fitment and the remedy is completely dependent on your vin and when the car was produced. There isn't a fix all for all cars across the board as many on here seem to think. Just a little friendly advice!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
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    My VIN:    3937

    Thanks for the help. VIN is 3937, Josh. Sept 81 build.

    I did not use a rubber mallet to install them, honestly. I did now though. I could see where some of the seal moved further onto the lip by a millimeter or so. Some spots didn't move at all, but some did, so I think that'll have helped some at the very least.

    The door still wouldn't get into that second latch position after the mallet work, so I thought perhaps it was the edge near the torsion bar where the headliner kind of gets in your way of getting a decent amount of force on the mallet. I removed the headliner piece and then was able to tap down that area with the mallet as well. Not sure it moved any, but it might have.

    I then got in the seat and opened and closed slowly looking with a flashlight and feeling with my fingers for where there might be a spot it's encountering the first interference. I think one of those spots was the edge right along the windshield (above the sunvisor if you will). It seemed like it was tipping back towards the door opening and not as straight up as I'd like. I got that pushed up a little better and also removed the plastic bolster arm rest end cap that I added a while ago. I don't think it was rubbing, but it's off now anyway.

    I gave the door a few more fairly firm closes and got it to get into that second latch position. I think when I did all of this in increments, the biggest impact was that spot right near the windshield that seemed like it was angled back instead of straight up and was causing the most resistance.

    I left the door closed as is for the time being to give the seals a chance to gain some memory so to speak. It's raining here anyway, so the car can stay like that for now until I'm ready to fool with it some more. Thanks again for the help.
    One damn minute Admiral...


  5. #5
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    There is variability to the way the door seals are installed besides how far onto the fiberglass lip that you push them. The angle of the seal bulb, as you are finding out, also plays a role.

    Usually at the upper corner of the windshield, the seals are not pointing vertical, but rather outward toward the door. This will cause that part of the seal bulb to tear in a short amount of time. The fix is not straightforward and may involve shaping the fiberglass slightly so that the seal will tend to sit more vertical. You can also use a rubber mallet to deform the U-shaped metal reinforcement of the door seal to vary the orientation of the seal bulb. You can also use superglue to glue part of the seal bulb onto itself to make it orient itself more vertical. User FABombjoy also has experience here.

    If all of that weren't enough, the amount of lubrication on the door seals can mean the difference between smooth and sticky closing. I do not find most of the recommended greases/lubricants/conditioners work well because they seem to become sticky, rather than slippery, after a short period of time. What I do find works is periodic application of Gummi Pflege, available here:

    https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-9148.../dp/B004B8GTQG
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Thanks for the help. VIN is 3937, Josh. Sept 81 build.

    I did not use a rubber mallet to install them, honestly. I did now though. I could see where some of the seal moved further onto the lip by a millimeter or so. Some spots didn't move at all, but some did, so I think that'll have helped some at the very least.

    The door still wouldn't get into that second latch position after the mallet work, so I thought perhaps it was the edge near the torsion bar where the headliner kind of gets in your way of getting a decent amount of force on the mallet. I removed the headliner piece and then was able to tap down that area with the mallet as well. Not sure it moved any, but it might have.

    I then got in the seat and opened and closed slowly looking with a flashlight and feeling with my fingers for where there might be a spot it's encountering the first interference. I think one of those spots was the edge right along the windshield (above the sunvisor if you will). It seemed like it was tipping back towards the door opening and not as straight up as I'd like. I got that pushed up a little better and also removed the plastic bolster arm rest end cap that I added a while ago. I don't think it was rubbing, but it's off now anyway.

    I gave the door a few more fairly firm closes and got it to get into that second latch position. I think when I did all of this in increments, the biggest impact was that spot right near the windshield that seemed like it was angled back instead of straight up and was causing the most resistance.

    I left the door closed as is for the time being to give the seals a chance to gain some memory so to speak. It's raining here anyway, so the car can stay like that for now until I'm ready to fool with it some more. Thanks again for the help.
    See how it goes once the door has sat closed on the seal overnight. You may find that you need to tweak the striker pins slightly.

    Did your old seals catch when opening/closing the door? (or had they worn a corner away?).

    For reference, here is an OEM seal on the left, compared against the DeLorean Go seal on the right.
    OEM.jpg

    Further comparisons - DeLorean Go Seal, OEM Seal, DeLorean Europe seal, and two other alternative seals.
    IMG_5175.jpg

    The seal has been tested in multiple cars since mid 2015, and was added to the DeLorean Go store as an item available to buy in October 2016. We wanted to make sure we got plenty of weather testing in before offering it out to owners, as you'll see the bulb on the seal is a little smaller than the OEM seal. I've driven my car in some fairly heavy downpours with these seals and have not had any leaks
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  7. #7
    Delorean Guru
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    If your doors (anchor pins) were adjusted to the old, flat, dead rubber door seals, you will have to slightly adjust the pins. To test for good sealing get strip of a stiff piece of thin cardboard (like from a shirt) close the door on it and see if drags.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #8
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeWard View Post
    See how it goes once the door has sat closed on the seal overnight. You may find that you need to tweak the striker pins slightly.

    Did your old seals catch when opening/closing the door? (or had they worn a corner away?).

    For reference, here is an OEM seal on the left, compared against the DeLorean Go seal on the right.
    OEM.jpg

    Further comparisons - DeLorean Go Seal, OEM Seal, DeLorean Europe seal, and two other alternative seals.
    IMG_5175.jpg

    The seal has been tested in multiple cars since mid 2015, and was added to the DeLorean Go store as an item available to buy in October 2016. We wanted to make sure we got plenty of weather testing in before offering it out to owners, as you'll see the bulb on the seal is a little smaller than the OEM seal. I've driven my car in some fairly heavy downpours with these seals and have not had any leaks
    Purchased and anxious to try out!
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    QA1 "DIY" Coil-Over Suspension Kit - $99.99
    Mirror switch rebuilding service w/ new springs & ball bearings - $49.50
    HEI Performance Ignition Module (Exchange) - $149.99
    Welding services also (all metals)!
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  9. #9
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Ordered Sunday after seeing this thread. Received three sets Tuesday. (selected cheapest shipping method from UK). Installed a set on a car with phenomenal doors. Bedded the set in and I'm very happy with the quality of the seal. Putting a second set on a car with doors that are not as streamlined. I"m already confident that the seal material is going to resist wear more so than other gaskets. Ours included.

  10. #10
    Matt Drive Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2016

    Location:  Washington D.C.

    Posts:    431

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeWard View Post
    See how it goes once the door has sat closed on the seal overnight. You may find that you need to tweak the striker pins slightly.

    Did your old seals catch when opening/closing the door? (or had they worn a corner away?).

    For reference, here is an OEM seal on the left, compared against the DeLorean Go seal on the right.
    OEM.jpg

    Further comparisons - DeLorean Go Seal, OEM Seal, DeLorean Europe seal, and two other alternative seals.
    IMG_5175.jpg

    The seal has been tested in multiple cars since mid 2015, and was added to the DeLorean Go store as an item available to buy in October 2016. We wanted to make sure we got plenty of weather testing in before offering it out to owners, as you'll see the bulb on the seal is a little smaller than the OEM seal. I've driven my car in some fairly heavy downpours with these seals and have not had any leaks

    Installed these seals this evening and followed up with Gummi Pflege to help them adjust. My first impression is that the seals allow the doors to close more easily because the bulb profile is much smaller. Unlike the OEM inner door seals, the majority of the DeLorean-Go seal is a "sweep," similar to what you find on the bottom of a residential entry door or a pivoting glass shower door.

    My passenger door, which was prone to tearing the front-upper windshield corner, now closes as if there are no door seals installed at all (very easily).

    My driver's door, which closed better than the passenger door with OEM seals, had a more difficult time closing afterward. I am still investigating this and will report back after the seals have had a chance to set overnight.

    I will also report back my test drive results regarding wind noise. I have an earlier car that may be more prone to wind noise.
    New & Improved V3 S/S Alternator Tensioning Bracket - $39.99
    New & Used DeLorean Parts on eBay HERE.
    S/S Upper Alternator Bracket for Saturn/Autozone Alternator - $39.99
    QA1 Coil-Over Suspension Kit - Complete Kit - $1,149.99 w/ FREE SHIPPING
    QA1 "DIY" Coil-Over Suspension Kit - $99.99
    Mirror switch rebuilding service w/ new springs & ball bearings - $49.50
    HEI Performance Ignition Module (Exchange) - $149.99
    Welding services also (all metals)!
    http://www.drivestainless.com

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