Overheating

[eseethal]

I am very interested in your tests! Fingers crossed that it's the new sensor!

Eugen

[eseethal]

Going to try and make some readings using that as a starting point tonight

Were you able to make some readings in the meantime? I "fixed" my problem with the obviously wrong sender already, I just put a varable resistor (0-100 Ohms) inline, so I could adjust the correct reading when the engine is warm (I added probably 25 Ohms). This seems to work fine, although I know it's not the right way to fix this as the resitance of the sensor is not linear. But this was much easier than changing the temperatur sender :-)

Eugen

[Bitsyncmaster]

Were you able to make some readings in the meantime? I "fixed" my problem with the obviously wrong sender already, I just put a varable resistor (0-100 Ohms) inline, so I could adjust the correct reading when the engine is warm (I added probably 25 Ohms). This seems to work fine, although I know it's not the right way to fix this as the resitance of the sensor is not linear. But this was much easier than changing the temperatur sender :-)

Eugen

This thread has data of testing the gauge sender.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...onic-Otterstat

[Morpheus]

1. As engine warms up, observe drivers side of radiator warms up, with passenger side following over time.

This stood out to me. When one side of the radiator is cooler than the other, then it typically means you still have trapped air in it. Try bleeding the radiator again, but do it cold with a pressure tester.

[David T]

[/LIST]

This stood out to me. When one side of the radiator is cooler than the other, then it typically means you still have trapped air in it. Try bleeding the radiator again, but do it cold with a pressure tester.

Trapped air would cause the top to be colder than the bottom, where the air is (on the top) the hot coolant can't reach and warm up.

[Morpheus]

Trapped air would cause the top to be colder than the bottom, where the air is (on the top) the hot coolant can't reach and warm up.

I agree, you would think that physics would defy what I wrote. If I hadn't been shown this phenomenon by Dave Swingle in person on a car that was having a strange overheating problem, I wouldn't have believed it either. However, I have... and he was right. I bled the radiator again, and a bunch more air came out. Afterward, the temp didn't get much higher than the first mark on the gauge. I merely suggested that the OP try, it certainly can't hurt.


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[dn010]

I can attest to one side being colder than the other, this happened to me after I installed my new aluminum radiator. I didn't overheat but I always feel around to make sure things are circulating. However, I parked on an incline and left the bleed screw open on the pump for a while until I got the air out, then instantly the radiator was the same temp throughout.

[dn010]

Facing upwards, as the OEM one was also. Though as I say, even if I manually jump the fans the temperature continues to rise.

You should also change this so that the otterstat is facing downwards.

[ritztoys]

I parked on an incline and left the bleed screw open on the pump for a while until I got the air out, then instantly the radiator was the same temp throughout.

I take it you parked your car with the radiator "down", and allowed the 'air' @ the water pump/thermostat housing to bleed out slowly.

The reason I ask is I need to replace my coolant as when it gets old it can corrode the aluminum pipes in the cooling system, ask me how I know!

[dn010]

Yes, radiator was lower than the engine, there were times I've even had to raise the back of the car up with a jack a few times depending on the situation. I've too have had to replace rotten aluminum pipes, especially the passenger side rear pipe that has a clamp around it securing it to the frame - it was corroded enough a hole appeared.

I've drained and refilled the DeLorean cooling system dozens of times over the past 15 years. It isn't fun compared to a 'typical' vehicle but as long as you're thorough you'll be fine, especially if you have an auto bleeder installed [I do not].

I take it you parked your car with the radiator "down", and allowed the 'air' @ the water pump/thermostat housing to bleed out slowly.

The reason I ask is I need to replace my coolant as when it gets old it can corrode the aluminum pipes in the cooling system, ask me how I know!