A/C blues

[FABombjoy]

Dryer to evap removal can be made easier if you pull the fuel pump access plate. Gives you a straight shot to the connection. I saw a lot of posts about how scary that fitting is but had it removed fairly instantly with a few long crescent wrenches.

[iflights]

Thank you all for the guidance. I think I've read just about every AC thread here so I feel prepared for the work and potential pitfalls.

[eight8toy]

That is a bugger of connection to get wrenches on. The Evaporator nut is steel Female thread. I don't no how you are cutting the Accumulator Nut, but you must not damage the Evaporator Nut or tube. Replacing the Evaporator is big job. I've done it, and hope I never have to do it ever again.

Before you resort to cutting, Try penetrating oil. You could Also Carefully try heating the large Hex on the Accumulator. Aluminum will expand easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya I stopped working on my car for the past few weeks just because of that one connection! I tried wedging the accumulator against the wall in my garage with a 2x4 and then slipping a wrench through the spare tire hole and even with a cheater couldn't get the damn thing to budge. Soaked it in half a can of PB but haven't tried the heat, might give that a shot before cutting into it more. Found this online of someone else cutting his so figured why not?

http://www.deloreanreborn.com/index.php?itemid=126

Actually though, not sure if I need to replace the evap now since even though the two nuts won't budge, the female evap nut is able to spin a bit on the tube with the accumulator still attached to it. Does that mean it's compromised too?

[DMC5180]

Not necessarily. lt's an o-ring compression seal. the Evap Tube is Aluminum it may have deformed the Bubble flange slightly that the nut pushes on . Since you can't budge the nut at the movement, you have no way of seeing if you can tighten it. be very careful with heat. Try to concentrate solely on the nut. Also keep a wet rag handy to protect the surrounding area. use shields if at all possible. If you have any hint of fuel smell don't even think about trying it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dn010]

Keep in mind that fuel lines lie just beyond the accumulator. I'd go ahead and cut it apart (Actually it's MUCH easier with a plasma cutter if you have access). I had to remove my dash twice to replace the evaporator, I'm on my third one. More can be found here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...dryer)-Removal

[eight8toy]

Ya I'm not too excited seeing the fuel lines right behind. I only have a simple dremel tool which has been working well with the accumulator. Will try using my handheld propane torch that I also used on my main crankshaft seal nut a few months ago.

San Diego Comic Con is this weekend so might just seal everything up for now so I can go drive downtown and see a lot of smiling faces!

[Andrew]

If the accumulator is undamaged thus far, I would consider just leaving it alone and reusing it. I sheered the accumulator to low side hose connection on 5052 and just barely saved the evaporator connection.

Contrary to popular belief, an accumulator can be reused even with a 134a conversion. I'm doing just that on my Bricklin because the Bricklin accumulator is NLA and I didn't want pay to have the existing unit rebuilt or make a custom part. The Bricklin's AC works great.

[dn010]

He has already stated he's begun cutting his accumulator out. I reused the accumulator once and gotten away with it but the system was not open for more than a few seconds. After that my system had been open so long it didn't make sense to replace $$$ worth of parts and not replace the accumulator. Also if your compressor is new and has a warranty, you'll likely void it without replacing the accumulator....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[David T]

There are 2 very important reasons the accumulator should be replaced:

1) the accumulator also contains the desiccant (dryer) which removes any moisture that may get into the system. Eventually it gets "overloaded" and can no longer absorb any more moisture. Replacing the accumulator replaces the desiccant so you start "fresh".

2) the accumulator traps a good amount of refrigerant oil and there is no good way to drain it. Over time it can become acidic and should all be replaced. Replacing the accumulator gets rid of that oil. The other place that contains a large amount of oil is the compressor but you can drain most of it out. Minor amounts remain in the hoses and coils but they can be flushed.

3) Another good reason is that in replacing the accumulator you also replace the "O" ring seals and that should stop any leaks.

In any major service of the A/C system on an old Delorean you typically replace all 3 hoses, the accumulator/dryer, the oil, all of the "O" ring seals, and the 2 service valve cores. Do a leak-test, evacuate, refill with refrigerant and do a performance test. You will also probably have to clean the condensate drain, replace the cabin fan motor, replace the belt and 2 idler pulleys, and rebuild the mode switch. The engine cooling system must also be in good working order to have good A/C.

[eight8toy]

20170720_175658.jpg
I like this thread because it got me motivated today. Picked up some real quality metal cutting wheels for my dremel and cut away the accumulator in sections. Ended up with this tonight. Will try some penetrating oil and some heat (not at the same time of course) tomorrow to see if I can finally get it separated!