Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I misread your original post. Which hose are you replacing? I thought you said, condenser to accumulator. Accumulator to compressor (low side hose) is bit more challenging if it's the OEM type hose size. The DPI hoses would be very easy to fish through the frame space.
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Last edited by DMC5180; 06-05-2017 at 12:07 AM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 413
My VIN: 4665
Adding onto a recent and relevant thread...for those who have done so, what should be my time expectation for me to replace the AC compressor, the lines, & accumulator? Evap and condenser will be cleaned out, but will remain in place.
I want to have it ready for the the Woodward Dream Cruise and that's only a month away.
Thank you in advance.
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 237
My VIN: 10353
None of it is very hard. If you have a lift you could knock it out in a weekend easy. I'm using car jacks and am stuck with the last connection from the accumulator to the evaporator. Now having to resort to using a dremel to try and cut the accumulator off. If it wasn't for that one connection causing so much frustration I would have been done a month ago! Hopefully you don't run into anything like that!
If you are replacing all the lines I found it was easier to use a handsaw and cut the old lines into smaller pieces to get them removed off the car.
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,096
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
If you break the line going to the evaporator, add much more frustration and at the very least another full day to fix your AC.
-----Dan B.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,570
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
You should not have to replace the compressor unless it is making bad noises. If you are familiar with the job and things go well (everything comes apart easily, no contamination) it's about a 4 hour job figuring an hour for evacuation.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
That is a bugger of connection to get wrenches on. The Evaporator nut is steel Female thread. I don't no how you are cutting the Accumulator Nut, but you must not damage the Evaporator Nut or tube. Replacing the Evaporator is big job. I've done it, and hope I never have to do it ever again.
Before you resort to cutting, Try penetrating oil. You could Also Carefully try heating the large Hex on the Accumulator. Aluminum will expand easily.
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DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Mist have not been too bad. Total bill was 300 and that was replacing the accumulator as well as convert and charge it. That was several weeks ago and the AC has been doing fine ever since. I have always refrained from 134 but really I can't tell a difference in vent temps.
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
Or if the compressor is leaking (not exactly rare), and you don't want to go through the chore of re-gasketing it.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze