I am trying to tighten down the nut that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle BUT I don't see a way to keep the tie rod stud from spinning! Any advice???
Look how close I am!
20170611_210238.jpg
Location: Parker, TX
Posts: 731
My VIN: #1283
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
I am trying to tighten down the nut that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle BUT I don't see a way to keep the tie rod stud from spinning! Any advice???
Look how close I am!
20170611_210238.jpg
Last edited by Henrik; 06-11-2017 at 11:54 PM.
VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Parker, TX
Posts: 731
My VIN: #1283
Club(s): (SCDC) (DCUK)
Aha! Thanks Dave and Dennis.
I was being a good steward and put anti-seize on the tapered ends (for whoever will need to replace the tie rod ends 30 years from now) but I'll wipe it and follow your suggestions.
Thanks!
VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
It's kind of like engaging a tapered spindle on a mill or drill press. Clean the mating surfaces with acetone or something similar and jam them together; once together they shouldn't spin and will be locked together.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
NEVER put Never-Seize on the tapered sections of that joint. Don't put it on the threads either. The cotter pin is all you need and if the joint must come apart in the future, that is what tie rod end pullers and pickle forks are for. You certainly don't want that joint to loosen up and fall apart EVER! In fact, I can't think of ANY place in the steering or front suspension you should use Never-Seize. Maybe on the splines of the U joint steering shaft?
David Teitelbaum