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Thread: How do I tighten the Tie-Rod-to-Steering-Knuckle nut?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    How do I tighten the Tie-Rod-to-Steering-Knuckle nut?

    I am trying to tighten down the nut that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle BUT I don't see a way to keep the tie rod stud from spinning! Any advice???

    Look how close I am!

    20170611_210238.jpg
    Last edited by Henrik; 06-11-2017 at 11:54 PM.
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  2. #2
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henrik View Post
    I am trying to tighten down the nut that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle BUT I don't see a way to keep the tie rod stud from spinning! Any advice???

    Look how close I am!

    ]
    Put a floor jack under it (if you are using the floor jack to hold the car up, just lower it down on something like a wood block). Or just grab it and the knuckle with channellocks. You need to get the taper to start locking into the joint and it will stop turning.
    .
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Put a floor jack under it (if you are using the floor jack to hold the car up, just lower it down on something like a wood block). Or just grab it and the knuckle with channellocks. You need to get the taper to start locking into the joint and it will stop turning.
    .
    +1

    A Jack under the Rod end always worked for me.


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Henrik's Avatar
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    Aha! Thanks Dave and Dennis.

    I was being a good steward and put anti-seize on the tapered ends (for whoever will need to replace the tie rod ends 30 years from now) but I'll wipe it and follow your suggestions.

    Thanks!
    VR6 engine (367 rwhp/377 ftlb); Type T4 turbo; A/R=0.70/0.68; Air-to-air intercooler, Megasquirt MS3 Pro, Manual tranny w/ HD output shaft; Remote mounted oil filter.
    Adjustable dampers and ride height springs from QA1/DriveStainless; SS triangulated LCA brackets, boxed in LCAs, PU bushings, ventilated front brake rotors - all from DMCEU; UCAs with -3 deg camber from Reid Performance; 15" rear rims x 4
    http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com

  5. #5
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
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    It's kind of like engaging a tapered spindle on a mill or drill press. Clean the mating surfaces with acetone or something similar and jam them together; once together they shouldn't spin and will be locked together.

  6. #6
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    NEVER put Never-Seize on the tapered sections of that joint. Don't put it on the threads either. The cotter pin is all you need and if the joint must come apart in the future, that is what tie rod end pullers and pickle forks are for. You certainly don't want that joint to loosen up and fall apart EVER! In fact, I can't think of ANY place in the steering or front suspension you should use Never-Seize. Maybe on the splines of the U joint steering shaft?
    David Teitelbaum

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