Replacing steering rack - what is this?

[Redsquall]

I am under the car tonight removing the steering rack and the shaft with you joints on it to replace both of them. I ordered the new rack from PJ Grady without tie rod ends. Am I supposed to unscrew this big bolt from the rack itself or will the new steering rack come with the tie rod arms? Photo...
IMG_9131.jpg

Also, how do you get the U joint off of the steering rack? Or I have already loosened both U joints but there's no room to pull it either way to get it off.


I also found that this electrical connector has been disconnected from the brake system and looks quite corroded. I have no problems with my brakes and they were just upgraded to DeLorean europes power brake kit by DMCmw. Anyways, it looks like this has not been connected for quite some time. Should I worry about it? What does it do?
Photo
IMG_9130.jpg

[dn010]

You don't unscrew those "big bolts", they're actually a big nut with a pin driven in them to lock them in place so you'd have a real difficult time removing them. You can either unscrew the actual outer tie rod end (by the wheel) that connects the rack to the steering knuckles or unbolt the tie rod end from the knuckle and press it out. Google tie rod end images if you're unsure what they look like. You should replace the tie rod ends if you are going through the trouble of replacing the rack.

You loosen the u joints, spray them with PB or similar. Wedge a screw driver between the slit in the joints to open them up a bit and then pull the one on the rack up towards the steering wheel.

The electrical connector is for the low brake fluid switch inside the reservoir cap which will trigger the "brake" light if low. If it's unplugged it will not sense if your fluid is low. While you can drive just fine without it, it should be fixed at some point for safety sake.


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[Redsquall]

Excellent. Thank you very much
Is there any certain spray people recommend for clearing corrosion off of connectors like that where it's too difficult to brush them?

[dn010]

You can try a small file, but if you plug it in and unplug it a few times it should clean itself up. To test if it is working, plug it in, unscrew the cap, pull the cap out and either set it in something cap side up and look at the light or pull the cap up and out with an assistant looking at the light to see if it comes on. Key must be on for this.


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[Lwanmtr]

For the steering ujoints something PB Blaster works..just have to be patient while you let it work..hehe.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The U joint bolt connected to the steering wheel has to come out for the U joint to pull off the shaft. Don't remember if the lower joint is the same but I would assume it is. Even a loose bolt still locks the joint from pulling off the shaft.

[Lwanmtr]

As I recall the lower is the same..I had to remove both to get mine off.

[Redsquall]

Thanks Guys. My knowledge is growing and I'll be able to help others soon with stuff like this

[Farrar]

Is there any certain spray people recommend for clearing corrosion off of connectors like that where it's too difficult to brush them?

CRC "Quick Dry" Electronics Cleaning Spray works pretty well for me. Most parts houses stock it.

For very badly corroded terminals you may want to try liquid flux (low-grade acid) on a long, thin paint brush. (Example of a bottle here: http://www.laco.com/soldering-fluxes/n-3-flux-liquid/ )

[Bitsyncmaster]

CRC "Quick Dry" Electronics Cleaning Spray works pretty well for me. Most parts houses stock it.

For very badly corroded terminals you may want to try liquid flux (low-grade acid) on a long, thin paint brush. (Example of a bottle here: http://www.laco.com/soldering-fluxes/n-3-flux-liquid/ )

Flux usually needs heat to become active. There are many types. There is a little activity cold on some which is why you don't leave it on circuit boards.

I've had pretty good results cleaning oxide off connector pins by dipping the whole connector in Tarn-x. Then you dip or flush it with water.