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Thread: Replacing steering rack - what is this?

  1. #11
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Replacing steering rack - what is this?

    Your steering rack from Rob will include everything, except the outer tie-rod end.

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    Last edited by DMC5180; 06-14-2017 at 07:50 PM.
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  2. #12
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    Cool I'll check out that stuff.

    Can I take the steering rack out without taking off the tie rod ends on the wheel? What I'm after is trying to minimize the need for alignment because I just had it done.
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

  3. #13
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Replacing steering rack - what is this?

    You will need an alignment anyway because the new rack may not be exactly the same adjustment as the old. You can take the tie rod ends on and off the knuckle all you want and you won't change anything. It's the amount of threads the tie rod is threaded onto the inner tie rod that changes the alignment. You can try to match the thread count to get it close.


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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    You will need an alignment anyway because the new rack may not be exactly the same adjustment as the old. You can take the tie rod ends on and off the knuckle all you want and you won't change anything. It's the amount of threads the tie rod is threaded onto the inner tie rod that changes the alignment. You can try to match the thread count to get it close.


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    That at makes sense. Thanks!
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

  5. #15
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    You can also count the number of turns it takes, should get you close too.
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  6. #16
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsquall View Post
    Cool I'll check out that stuff.

    Can I take the steering rack out without taking off the tie rod ends on the wheel? What I'm after is trying to minimize the need for alignment because I just had it done.
    Technically, it can be done. Loosen the small clamp on the Rack boots, then break the Jam nut loose for the outer rod ends. The inner rod shaft may have a couple flat spots for a wrench, if not a small vise grip clamped on the rod works to unscrew the inner rod from the outer rod end.

    The standard way is to separate the Outer Rod ends from the steering knuckle and transfer them with the New rack assembly though.


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    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    You will need an alignment anyway because the new rack may not be exactly the same adjustment as the old. You can take the tie rod ends on and off the knuckle all you want and you won't change anything. It's the amount of threads the tie rod is threaded onto the inner tie rod that changes the alignment. You can try to match the thread count to get it close.
    Hervey's tie rod ends are also different length then the OEM ends.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
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    Thank you guys. So I got the PJ Grady rack on and the Borgeson You joints and steering shaft fabricated in drove six hours the other day. It worked great. I also had an alignment right before I drove. But it turns out I can turn the wheel farther one-way than the other. Jason at DMCMW Says the rack is not centered then. So rather than take it back to the people that didn't really complete the alignment, I'm thinking I should just detach are you joint and turn the wheel about halfway Of the additional amount and that should even it out? Of course at that point my steering wheel itself will be off but I can just adjust the wheel.Do You guys see anything that I'm missing with this plan?
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

  9. #19
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsquall View Post
    Thank you guys. So I got the PJ Grady rack on and the Borgeson You joints and steering shaft fabricated in drove six hours the other day. It worked great. I also had an alignment right before I drove. But it turns out I can turn the wheel farther one-way than the other. Jason at DMCMW Says the rack is not centered then. So rather than take it back to the people that didn't really complete the alignment, I'm thinking I should just detach are you joint and turn the wheel about halfway Of the additional amount and that should even it out? Of course at that point my steering wheel itself will be off but I can just adjust the wheel.Do You guys see anything that I'm missing with this plan?
    Is the problem that the rack is not centered, or the steering wheel is not centered? These are totally different things. What you've described doing wont do anything to center the rack, it will only change the orientation of your steering wheel. If that's your problem, don't go to the trouble of pulling the u-joint apart, just pull the steering wheel off and put it back on centered.

    If your problem truly is that your rack is not centered, as in: from the centered position, you can turn the wheel more turns in one direction than you can the other (you can make tighter turns on one side than the other), the adjustment has to be made at the rack. To do this you have to loosen the lock nuts on both tie rods and adjust them equally, without changing your alignment. If you add a turn to one side, you have to take a turn out of the other side. You need to be very precise about it, otherwise you'll be right back in for another alignment. I've done this on my car without issue, but you have to go slow to ensure that whatever length you're taking from one side, you're adding to the other side.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    Is the problem that the rack is not centered, or the steering wheel is not centered? These are totally different things. What you've described doing wont do anything to center the rack, it will only change the orientation of your steering wheel. If that's your problem, don't go to the trouble of pulling the u-joint apart, just pull the steering wheel off and put it back on centered.

    If your problem truly is that your rack is not centered, as in: from the centered position, you can turn the wheel more turns in one direction than you can the other (you can make tighter turns on one side than the other), the adjustment has to be made at the rack. To do this you have to loosen the lock nuts on both tie rods and adjust them equally, without changing your alignment. If you add a turn to one side, you have to take a turn out of the other side. You need to be very precise about it, otherwise you'll be right back in for another alignment. I've done this on my car without issue, but you have to go slow to ensure that whatever length you're taking from one side, you're adding to the other side.
    Yes, it's the rack is not centered issue. Ok, how precise - like within one turn? I can do that. Then, just recenter the steering wheel after that?
    Thanks!
    81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...

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