As you can see in the photo the top not is off, PB blaster is on and it's not moving when I hammer on it with a piece of wood in between What am I missing? image.jpg
Posts: 293
As you can see in the photo the top not is off, PB blaster is on and it's not moving when I hammer on it with a piece of wood in between What am I missing? image.jpg
81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
put the nut on and hit that. The nut saves the threads. The wood is acting as a cushion taking the power away from your swings.
You can also get this tool and press it out
https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-ro...ler-62708.html
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Posts: 293
81' gas flap. Sept build. 14k miles. Mostly original. Updating things...
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
no x ref that i know of. the tie rod ends are very affordable from dmc. Just had to tow my friends car home after his tie rod end failed, not worth cheaping out on.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Actually the correct way to separate this joint is to unscrew the nut almost all the way. DO NOT hit the nut. Now strike the small bump you see on the knuckle casting as hard as you can with the heaviest hammer you have. (you will be swinging the hammer horizontally.) This actually deforms the knuckle slightly and the joint will simply pop apart.
The rubber seal is available at DMC shops in the $6 range. They whole tie rod end (in case you've now smashed the threads) is also available for about $25.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I addition to hitting the side of the knuckle method, you can still hit the top of the stud with the nut flush.The key is to put a jack (bottle or floor type) under the steering arm next to the ball joint. Put a little upward pressure on the arm, then smack the top of stud. This stops the Bounce when you smack it unsupported. It usually pops with 1 or 2 good smacks. Also if you were replacing the rod ends, protecting the threads would not matter.
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Last edited by DMC5180; 06-16-2017 at 09:19 AM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,576
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Hitting the threaded stud is not the best way. I have seen where they bend or mushroom. Definitely no good if you want to reuse it and just change the dust cover (boot). Hitting it on the side is the way to go if you don't have a puller. Takes a big, heavy hammer and plenty of room to swing it so you can hit it really hard and fast. Sometimes it can take several smacks.
David Teitelbaum