Can't get tie rod off

[Redsquall]

As you can see in the photo the top not is off, PB blaster is on and it's not moving when I hammer on it with a piece of wood in between What am I missing? image.jpg

[Josh]

put the nut on and hit that. The nut saves the threads. The wood is acting as a cushion taking the power away from your swings.

You can also get this tool and press it out

https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-ro...ler-62708.html

[Redsquall]

put the nut on and hit that. The nut saves the threads. The wood is acting as a cushion taking the power away from your swings.

You can also get this tool and press it out

https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-ro...ler-62708.html

Thanks! I finally got that thing off. My nut looks ruined though. The top is flat. Or can it still be used? I discovered the rubber on the tie rod is cracking. Can you get the rubber or the tie rod ends at your local auto place?

[Josh]

no x ref that i know of. the tie rod ends are very affordable from dmc. Just had to tow my friends car home after his tie rod end failed, not worth cheaping out on.

[DMCMW Dave]

Actually the correct way to separate this joint is to unscrew the nut almost all the way. DO NOT hit the nut. Now strike the small bump you see on the knuckle casting as hard as you can with the heaviest hammer you have. (you will be swinging the hammer horizontally.) This actually deforms the knuckle slightly and the joint will simply pop apart.

The rubber seal is available at DMC shops in the $6 range. They whole tie rod end (in case you've now smashed the threads) is also available for about $25.

[Josh]

Actually the correct way to separate this joint is to unscrew the nut almost all the way. DO NOT hit the nut. Now strike the small bump you see on the knuckle casting as hard as you can with the heaviest hammer you have. (you will be swinging the hammer horizontally.) This actually deforms the knuckle slightly and the joint will simply pop apart.

The rubber seal is available at DMC shops in the $6 range. They whole tie rod end (in case you've now smashed the threads) is also available for about $25.

I bow my head in silence and allow the master to speak!

[DMC5180]

I addition to hitting the side of the knuckle method, you can still hit the top of the stud with the nut flush.The key is to put a jack (bottle or floor type) under the steering arm next to the ball joint. Put a little upward pressure on the arm, then smack the top of stud. This stops the Bounce when you smack it unsupported. It usually pops with 1 or 2 good smacks. Also if you were replacing the rod ends, protecting the threads would not matter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[David T]

Hitting the threaded stud is not the best way. I have seen where they bend or mushroom. Definitely no good if you want to reuse it and just change the dust cover (boot). Hitting it on the side is the way to go if you don't have a puller. Takes a big, heavy hammer and plenty of room to swing it so you can hit it really hard and fast. Sometimes it can take several smacks.