Getting ready to start 5162 for the first time in a long time

[David T]

That little test proved out a lot. The motor runs, the clutch works, the transaxle works, most of the electrical system works, cooling system works, exhaust, steering, oil, suspension. It shifts. Get the brakes done and you can expand the envelope and take it on the road. Figure rebuilding all 4 calipers and the master cylinder and replacing all 4 hoses. You should do the clutch hydraulics too (if it's a 5-speed). Next time you get the motor hot you should replace the oil and filter.

[DMC5180]

Rolled it out of the shop, fire extinguisher out, deep breath heart beating fast, turned the key, started right up, idled smoothly, good oil pressure, temp warmed up, sounded pretty good no bad sounds, leaking exhaust manifold, and only 13 volts. So over all I was pretty stoked, drove it back into the shop, ready to start on brakes. John near KC

FWIW: Bill does fine tune every carb setup he produce, on his own car, before shipping them.


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[DMC5180]

FWIW: Bill does fine tune every carb setup he produces, on his own car, before shipping them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Toro8]

Thanks for the encouraging words. I have a master cylinder caliper kits metal flex lines, should get me stopping. rotors look smooth but I haven't measured them yet. John

[Andrew]

I belive it is a Peugeot manifold a Ford carb. A kit from Bill with an electric fuel pump. We had storms come through last night so I have not tried to start it yet, maybe tonight if I can get ahead of cuting up branches and stuff.
John near KC

The Peugeot manifold with the 2150 carb is a great combo! I'm running Peugeot manifolds on both 4194 and 5052. I'm currently using the stock Peugeot Solex carbs, but if either ever fails, I will swap it out with a 2150.

Eventually, you may want to consider upgrading to a mechanical fuel pump. I can provide the part numbers if you are interested.

[David T]

Thanks for the encouraging words. I have a master cylinder caliper kits metal flex lines, should get me stopping. rotors look smooth but I haven't measured them yet. John

If the brake pedal isn't pulsating and the rotors aren't scored or gouged they should be OK. You should scuff them up if you replace the pads. They only get too thin if you cut them too much. They should only get cut if they need to be resurfaced because they are warped or scored. Can't take very much off anyway before they must be replaced. Some brake shops cut every rotor they see because they can charge for it even if it isn't necessary. Eventually they have removed so much, the rotors have to be replaced. If you are on a budget just get the calipers rebuilt (or do it yourself) replace the hoses and master cylinder, fill it up and bleed. Drive the car and if you need rotors you can always go back and do them. The goal should be to get the car moving enough so you can drive it and do a more detailed assessment of all of the car's systems so you can determine what needs to be done and the order you want to do it in. For those with a bigger budget they can just do everything all at once.

[Toro8]

I got the new master cylinder mounted and spent way to much time trying to locate some Castrol brake fluid. I have 3 little bottles to get started. I guess I will have order some. Next I'll rebuild clean the calipers and replace the flex lines. John