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Thread: Changing my own front brake pads + Rotors

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

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    Changing my own front brake pads + Rotors

    Hi everyone, I want to attempt to do my own brake job on my Delorean. Change the front brake pads and rotors. Does anyone have any instructions with pictures I can take a look at? Also, does everyone here use the Ceramic type of pad that you can order from DMC and I think DPI. Or has anyone used another type of pad from a local auto supplier that is not Ceramic that won't run down the Rotor as fast? What is recommended?

    Thanks everyone in advance.

    Felix

  2. #2
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    I have a set on my car!
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  3. #3
    Formally hmm252000
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    I don't have pictures, but here are the basic steps to give you an idea of what's involved:
    1. Remove the calipers by undoing the two bolts (breaker bar may be required). Tip, turning the steering to one side will give you easier access. Set the calipers aside on top of the frame extension so there's no tension on the brake line.
    2. Remove the large spindle nut (breaker bar will be required).
    3. You can now pull the hub/rotor off. Note that if it's original, the bearings will probably fall apart. So it's a good idea to go ahead and just replace them when doing this job. You'll need to either have a machine shop replace them in the hub assembly (press is required) or you get get a refurb set from specialtauto.com with new bearings pressed in already (looks like DPI has them too).
    4. Remove the 4 bolts to seperate the hub and rotor. Tip, if you don't have a bench vice to hold the hub, stick it back into the wheel while it lays flat on the floor. It will hold the hub in place while you unbolt the rotor.
    5. You can now install the new rotor to the hub. Add loctite and torque bolts to spec.
    6. Install the hub/rotor back onto the spindle. Add washer and spindle nut. There's a torque spec for the nut but it's so high I just used a breaker bar and got it on as tight as I could. Verify the hub/rotor spin freely.
    7. Remove the pads from the caliper and compress the pistons in.
    8. Place the caliper back on and torque the two bolts to spec. Install the new pads.
    9. Reinstall wheel and repeat on other side.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    A common mistake people make is compress the piston without opening the bleed nipple. That just forces all the dirty old brake fluid back into the lines or master and will cause problems later. Open the bleed and nothning gets forced back into the lines.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Typically the rotors don't have to be replaced unless they are rotten, warped or deeply scored. You should also flush the brake fluid if it hasn't been done in the last 2 years.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    If the rotors are below minimum spec they should be replaced.
    www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters

  7. #7
    Junior Member
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    Min Spec

    New disk thickness 12.7mm, Minimum thickness 11.7mm. Max machine per side .5mm.

    Source: http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean...es-rotors.html

  8. #8
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC4719 View Post
    New disk thickness 12.7mm, Minimum thickness 11.7mm. Max machine per side .5mm.

    Source:
    For the USA audience, that is .500 inch (new) and <.460 inch (discard). Source - translated from the DMC Service Manual, in some location that I can't find at the moment.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Found it. You have to look at the service bulletins. The first one, St-11-8/81 says you can't machine the rotors. It was superseded by ST-08-10/82 with the specs on machining. Minimum IS .461 but there is a minimum spec on each side. You can only take a maximum of .0197 on each side. You should not be machining the rotors if you can help it. If you have grooves you will not be able to save them unless they are very minor. If the surfaces are flat just scuff them up with a 3" abrasive disk chucked in a drill with 80# using a random pattern. This will remove any glaze and allow the new pads to "bed" in quickly. if you do have to machine them tell the shop to take the lightest cut they can. Parallelism is VERY important, so is lateral runnout.
    David Teitelbaum



    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    For the USA audience, that is .500 inch (new) and <.460 inch (discard). Source - translated from the DMC Service Manual, in some location that I can't find at the moment.

  10. #10
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    I swear I've had cars in here with rotors at .300. I wonder what sort of machine shop would take them so thin. And why!
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

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