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Senior Member
The 'thermister' is physically located on the V coolant pipe under the inlet manifold.
To test it, just remove the white electrical connection from the idle ecu that has 4 wires on it.
Set your multi meter to resistance (0-100 k ohm) and connect the multi meter probes to the Black/Slate (grey colour) and the Black/Yellow cables (not the ecu itself)
You should get approx 12k ohm at engine warm temperature.
If you get open circuit then that's your problem. I.e. a wiring problem or connection problem.
Good luck
Nick
RIP Rob van de Veer
Top bloke
I say Sir, I must be mad, one loves fixing K-Jet !
Make sure there's plenty in the tank for the weekend chaps....
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Sept. 81, auto, black interior
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Originally Posted by
rjd2
yes, thanks for that test. If I'm understanding correctly, I pull the 3 pin black electrical connector to the idle speed motor, bridge the middle pin(+12V), and then tap either of the left or right pins to ground. My alligator clip method is a bit janky, but I was able to do this and at least bridge the left pin to ground. It goosed the idle speed up to about 1500-ish for about 1-2 seconds, then it fell back to the ~500-ish range that it idles at with the motor disconnected. I will try to test the right pin tapped to ground, and see what it does.
thanks for the help!
I am wondering a bit - why would the speed drop after 1-2 seconds ?
The idle motors that I know stay in their position, they do not close by themselves.
I did not expect this answer.
The goal was to find out if the idle is to high because of a mechanical problem or
because of the ECU. I don't undestand why your car would be different.
If it's the ECU -it could be the thermistor or simply the power stage transistor that failed ( very common).
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It was suggested to "just tap" either the left or right pin to ground, so that's what I did. I just tapped a jumper wire very quicklyf from the left pin on the motor to ground; it raised the idle to ~1500 for about 2 seconds, and then it fell back to it's resting rate with the black idle speed harness DISconnected(~500 or so). If any of my testing methodolies are off here, please correct me! Thanks!
Originally Posted by
Elvis
I am wondering a bit - why would the speed drop after 1-2 seconds ?
The idle motors that I know stay in their position, they do not close by themselves.
I did not expect this answer.
The goal was to find out if the idle is to high because of a mechanical problem or
because of the ECU. I don't undestand why your car would be different.
If it's the ECU -it could be the thermistor or simply the power stage transistor that failed ( very common).
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
rjd2
It was suggested to "just tap" either the left or right pin to ground, so that's what I did. I just tapped a jumper wire very quicklyf from the left pin on the motor to ground; it raised the idle to ~1500 for about 2 seconds, and then it fell back to it's resting rate with the black idle speed harness DISconnected(~500 or so). If any of my testing methodolies are off here, please correct me! Thanks!
I wonder if your idle speed motor is installed backwards. Can you post a photo of it.
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Thanks. I just did this test; at resting temp, it read ~4.5k. After running the car for about one minute, it read ~2.4k. That sounds off, eh?
Originally Posted by
NckT
The 'thermister' is physically located on the V coolant pipe under the inlet manifold.
To test it, just remove the white electrical connection from the idle ecu that has 4 wires on it.
Set your multi meter to resistance (0-100 k ohm) and connect the multi meter probes to the Black/Slate (grey colour) and the Black/Yellow cables (not the ecu itself)
You should get approx 12k ohm at engine warm temperature.
If you get open circuit then that's your problem. I.e. a wiring problem or connection problem.
Good luck
Nick
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Also, I'm not sure if this matters, but in the attached pic, you will see a red wire with a fuse in line. The fuse socket was empty. With the car not running, or keys in, i seated a fuse, and the fuse blew immediately. Not sure what that means, if anything...IMG_1182.jpg
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tapping ground on one side fully opens the valve, on the other side fully closes the valve.
so simple.
and that fuseholder is from the power antenna
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