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Thread: Replacing Rear Flex Brake Lines

  1. #11
    Delorean Guru
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    By the time you will be replacing the brake lines again that grease will have dried up and hardened. All it will do is attract dirt and moisture. Forget the grease.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #12
    Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris4099 View Post
    I had a similar issue. What I did both on my D and another during a tech session was to put the nut back on, but only a few threads. This gives you a large surface to hammer against. I then took a large wrench and put the open end against the nut. This allowed me to swing the hammer below the car against the wrench which then transferred the blows to the line fitting. Took a lot of hammering, but they eventually came out.
    Thanks Chris4099,

    I'll keep that option in mind, when I attempt removing that last nut and the end of flex brake line into the side of the chassis.

    Thank-you all owners for your suggestions, this is really an easy car to work on! (I just keep telling myself this to get through it)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post

    The other end of the flex line through the frame I just hammered out after cutting the end of the flex line short up to the fitting. I think using a hammer tends to be a pretty common method and unless you're a total caveman with your technique you should be able to avoid damaging any paint around the fitting. If you tap the opposite end from the sides a few times first that can help loosen it up and expand the hex shaped cup that is welded to the frame.
    Fellow Owners,
    First of all, I conquered this project, finally! Thanks for your suggestion Mark D.

    Here's how this went.........'Splash pan' must be removed or you'll be talking loudly to yourself! Then pull away from the frame the A/C return line(which rests on top of the heater hoses), then get 'channel lock' pliers to grab the metal part of the flex line coming out of the frame side(between all those hoses), spray penetrating oil on the connection and 'wiggle' those pliers for the next several hours!!

    I also did use my caveman abilities and hit this connection from the outside(before attaching pliers) with 1/2 socket extensions from below, in front, and from behind. This helped loosen the "hex fitting" around the brake line and I was eventually able to use my hands and finally remove this flex brake line.

    I'm so damn happy, brake system has been rebuilt and no more caliper 'hanging up'.

  4. #14
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
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    Hey that's great to hear you got the old fittings hammered out and the rest of the brake system rebuilt. Hope you're enjoying the nice smooth stops

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Hey that's great to hear you got the old fittings hammered out and the rest of the brake system rebuilt. Hope you're enjoying the nice smooth stops
    My brakes are really good now, but I ask the question; I have Herveys MC on my system, should I get my old original one rebuilt and replace with the new original?

  6. #16
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritztoys View Post
    My brakes are really good now, but I ask the question; I have Herveys MC on my system, should I get my old original one rebuilt and replace with the new original?
    I originally bought Herverys M/C but when I learned the proportioning in that unit is 50/50, I bought a new original one which is 68/32 (rear/front). My rationale was, aside from maintaining the original engineering, our cars are not known for having a strong front suspension. I found this video of the front end in action. Notice the flex under braking:

    https://youtu.be/CMHO4Aydk04

    So, I didn't want to increase the braking using a M/C unit that was designed for a Saab or something like that. I think that unit would be good once the front end is strengthened with new LCA's and outriggers, etc.

    That's just my opinion.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    I originally bought Herverys M/C but when I learned the proportioning in that unit is 50/50, I bought a new original one which is 68/32 (rear/front). My rationale was, aside from maintaining the original engineering, our cars are not known for having a strong front suspension. I found this video of the front end in action. Notice the flex under braking:

    https://youtu.be/CMHO4Aydk04

    So, I didn't want to increase the braking using a M/C unit that was designed for a Saab or something like that. I think that unit would be good once the front end is strengthened with new LCA's and outriggers, etc.

    That's just my opinion.
    Thanks for your opinion, I value your information as you have, been there, done that!

    I won't be replacing my LCA's or the outriggers for a little while, based on your experience I'll replace Herveys M/C with an original. That video is kinda scary, stay away from 'chuck-holes'.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Crows foot!!! They literally saved me when replacing all my brake lines. I was able to set the crows foot, then get my ratchet in there and pop!
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclearbacon View Post
    Crows foot!!! They literally saved me when replacing all my brake lines. I was able to set the crows foot, then get my ratchet in there and pop!
    I saw that this was going to be a horrible "cussing session", so I went to Harbor Freight and purchased 'crows feet'. Those tools were worth every penny, I got both types for <$25 total.

    Now after completing that brake job all is well, with new tools!

    My motto is; "Any excuse to buy a new tool"

  10. #20
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

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    Quote Originally Posted by ritztoys View Post
    "any excuse to buy a new tool"
    exactly!
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

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