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Thread: Passenger window alignment nightmare

  1. #1
    Senior Member krs09's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Philadelphia

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    Passenger window alignment nightmare

    For 25 plus years the passenger side window has not opened and now I see why. The window never moved since I've had it (regulator just made a popping sound). I managed to get the regulator off the glass to try it... the motor works (old and worn) just enough but it worked. So the window was stuck in the window channel and the motor wasn't strong enough to pull it down, even with my help. Moving the window up and down I can see the glass wants to jump in the car when going up and won't go into the top track unless I guide it in. When moving it down the front top metal portion of the guide is rubbing the glass and even with some adjustment I can't seem to stop it from rubbing at some point (the rear guide looks ok). Maybe the front guide is bent? Going to try to adjust again but damn I tried a lot. I don't want to ruin the new motor I'm about to install so any help or experience would be great. How much clearance should there be at the front guide to glass? Help I'm rambling
    Vin# 4870 - Rebuilt PRV motor - custom seats - fuzzy dash and stock everything else

    -Chris

  2. #2
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Location:  Olathe, KS

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    The tollbooth windows can be very reliable but they need some updates if you haven't done it yet.

    Replace the regulator for sure with a current version, also replace the Velcro strips adhered to the outer door skin with heavy duty "soft side" Velcro after cleaning the skin with solvent. Replace the inner wipe seal attached to the black crash bar with the improved version from PJ Grady.

    Next you'll have to remove the drop glass (I prefer to remove the two M6 nuts that hold the regulator tube to the carrier when I do this) and inspect the front edge to make sure the plastic finger isn't bending and allowing it to spread out and over the guide. It's possible to rivet the guide together near the edge to help prevent this.

    Then you should remove the regulator completely from the door and install the glass, confirming that the glass will smoothly ride up and down by hand on the guides. If it won't, you will have to experiment with adjusting the guide, both where it mounts to the door (two screws) and where the guide rail attaches to the mount which allows in/out tip of the rail. Basically if you can get the glass to go up and down smoothly without binding without the regulator installed, once you install a new GOOD regulator it will work as expected.

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    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  3. #3
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
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    To add to what Andy said: Also line the access holes with some duct tape. A couple layers should do. They are razor sharp and you won't know you are cut until you see the blood drip down. When moving the window freely up and down, look at the front and rear plastic pieces to see when/if they move away from the track. You may need to reach in and bend the track. Sometimes they move a bit away and then the pressure makes them pop out. Bending it the opposite direction reduces the travel and tension so they stay on the track.

    DO NOT reach in to bend without first putting duct tape or some other kind of protection over the stainless.
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
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    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
    6th angle drive - OVER 113,704 miles and counting (OVER 13 yr 1 month & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
    over 245K miles

  4. #4
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    You could also go this route instead of the tape:

    https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...rd-from-Amazon
    -----Dan B.

  5. #5
    Senior Member krs09's Avatar
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    Location:  Philadelphia

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    Thank guys.. When get the window down it "pops" free then goes down by hand. There must be some tension. Maybe the guides are bent. The front did show a bend and the factory pics look very straight. Any pics of a good door/window guide apart for comparison?
    Vin# 4870 - Rebuilt PRV motor - custom seats - fuzzy dash and stock everything else

    -Chris

  6. #6
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    See this reference to that part.

    All of the guides have a curved design. Not straight. The curved drop glass has to slightly rotate inward as it is raised in order to next properly into the curved fixed glass.

    If your guide rail is kinked then replace it. Am not sure how that would ever happen, though.

    Quote Originally Posted by krs09 View Post
    ?.Any pics of a good door/window guide apart for comparison?
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  7. #7
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krs09 View Post
    Thank guys.. When get the window down it "pops" free then goes down by hand. There must be some tension. Maybe the guides are bent. The front did show a bend and the factory pics look very straight. Any pics of a good door/window guide apart for comparison?
    Here are a few pics of a good one

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    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  8. #8
    Senior Member glockworks21's Avatar
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    my drivers side did the exact same thing when i got the car. there were probably 10 small washers pushing the rail out but it still wasnt enough. I dont know how it cold have ever been off that far. po obviously tried to fix. I found some nylon spacers that looked like they would get it to the right position and got lucky on the first try. its been fine since...
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  9. #9
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by glockworks21 View Post
    my drivers side did the exact same thing when i got the car. there were probably 10 small washers pushing the rail out but it still wasnt enough. I dont know how it cold have ever been off that far. po obviously tried to fix. I found some nylon spacers that looked like they would get it to the right position and got lucky on the first try. its been fine since...
    That should definitely not be necessary but hard to argue if it works! Is the rear guide out that far also? Kind of sounds like someone glued the glass into the carrier incorrectly and this is the only thing they could think of to line it up as it rolls up.

    Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  10. #10
    Senior Member krs09's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2012

    Location:  Philadelphia

    Posts:    388

    My VIN:    4870

    Thanks for all the tips (and pics). I finally got the front guide out and it does look rippled down the spine and has a twist at the end.. Ordered new front guide. I'm going to adjust everything just a bit when the new guide comes in. After getting the front guide out I can see the front portion of the carrier looks worn.. The driver side guide shows these "stops" that hold the guide as it rides up and down. I'm wondering if the guides are worn causing excessive movement. The glass does not look like a blast to remove & replace (let alone glue new carrirer to new glass). I'm hoping for some improvement with the new guide and some adjustments... Well see. Stay tuned.
    Vin# 4870 - Rebuilt PRV motor - custom seats - fuzzy dash and stock everything else

    -Chris

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