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Thread: DMC Spax Shocks Reviews and Driver Adjustment Settings

  1. #51
    Senior Member Chris 16409's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fresno, CA.

    Posts:    1,382

    My VIN:    16409

    Quote Originally Posted by dmc6960 View Post
    I assume you reinforced the other side as well when you repaired the damaged side?
    That's correct. I didn't want to take a chance. I haven't had any other issues. I have also been meaning to find a shock wrench to adjust my Spax.
    Chris Miles

    For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
    1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California

  2. #52
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    841

    Post

    I just completed upgrading the front bushings and hardware on both of my shocks.
    I used a combination of two Energy suspension part numbers and had to use a 7/16 drill bit on both since they only came in 3/8 ID while all of the other dimensions were identical, but they fit nice and snug and work; the nuts aren't going to be pulling through the thick and strong washers this time.

  3. #53
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Minnesota

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    My VIN:    06960

    Quote Originally Posted by DeloreanJoshQ View Post
    I used a combination of two Energy suspension part numbers
    You left out the most important piece of information, the actual part numbers!
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  4. #54
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Post Energy Suspension Part Numbers to Upgrade Spax Bushings/Washers

    Ok, Here is what I did:

    I used 4 bushings from the below bushing set which is 3/8 ID(all other dimensions were identical), and took a 7/16 drill bit gently to them along with some lube to get the bushings to slide on the bayonet. This was the closest match I could find from JEGS:

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy-Suspens...8106G/10002/-1

    I used 4 washers from the below set. They are also 3/8 ID so I drilled them out with the same 7/16 drill bit. The bushings in this set are a little bigger in OD (by 1/8th) and the locating nipple was also a tad big (by 1/16th) for the shock tower hole; you can decide if you want to make it fit. I just wasn't quite happy with them (nit-picking)

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy-Suspens...8105G/10002/-1

    If the washers from this setup break, there will be a lot more damage to the rest of the suspension; i.e. no way a small speed bump at 20 mph will break them like the original stamped pop-metal pieces.
    Last edited by DeloreanJoshQ; 05-08-2013 at 10:10 PM.

  5. #55
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,168

    My VIN:    10270

    I've been running the same bushings (or similar) on mine as well, enlarged as described above. My original Spax bushings tore in less than a year but the urethane bushings are still going strong after a couple of years.

    I also replaced the rear lower bushings with the style that looks like two tophats. Not sure what the actual name of that style is
    On both sides the shock was sliding off of the bushing and riding against the washer, which is not acceptable to me. Replacing these were trickier as the shock eyelet is metric but the suspension bolt is imperial, so I bought a set of oversized bushings with a steel insert that matched the bolt ID and then lathed down the urethane to fit.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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