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Thread: Proofing my work after fuel distribution re-assembly?

  1. #1
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    Proofing my work after fuel distribution re-assembly?

    Greetings-so I recently completed the replacement of a thermister. I did my best to tag my connections, and double check my work as I reassembled the intake/fuel distribution system, and thought I had it all right, but upon testing, I am not getting the engine to start. RIGHT at the first few cranks, it will sputter, sounding as though it is receiving a small amount of fuel, but it never takes, and after the first 2 seconds, the engine just cranks and doesn't start.

    I read the entire fuel section of the manual(section D), and while I understand better the general "workflow" of the fuel system, it didn't give me much to proof my work. The few electrical connections(idle speed motor harness, etc) it details never got disconnected, or are obviously seated properly. I have a suspicion I missed a fuel hose or electrical harness somewhere. Is there a diagram anywhere that I could use to confirm I have all my fuel lines and electrical harnesses seated in the right position? (as an aside, I believe I have a fuel pressure gauge that fits this car, so should I throw that on between the CPR and the fuel distributor and see what i see?)

    thanks for any advice!

  2. #2
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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  3. #3
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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    See if a shot of Ether gets it to run at all. That will tell you if your problem is ignition or fuel.
    David Teitelbaum

  4. #4
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    Thanks Ron-I'll trace tomorrow and make sure it looks right.

    Shot of ether-never done this before. can you elaborate?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjd2 View Post
    Thanks Ron-I'll trace tomorrow and make sure it looks right.

    Shot of ether-never done this before. can you elaborate?
    Ether is what's in starting fluid. Any auto parts store will have it.

    LINK: Starting Fluid

    1 can is plenty. Follow the instructions on the can.

    If an engine starts with starting fluid but not without it then there's a fuel delivery problem. If it won't start with starting fluid then look into the ignition system.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  6. #6
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Since it ran before this work and it sounds like it is getting spark (at least at first), I'd wild guess it is the CPR/WUR fuel line with the small banjo bolt that is supposed to go to the passenger side of the fuel distributor, but doesn't.

    =====

    I'd check that the air metering plate offers resistance when it is pushed down, after hearing the pump run. If it doesn't, it's fuel. If it does, press it all of the way down and release it immediately and then see if it acts the same when you try to start it.

  7. #7
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    I actually created a Fuel Host Diagram back in 2000 when the DML/DMCNews was the main source of DeLorean information on the Internet.

    Please see my diagram below. Hopefully it helps.

    Fuel System Hose Diagram.jpg

    -Nick Pitello

  8. #8
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    Join Date:  Mar 2016

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    thanks! it does help. i've proofed my fuel lines, and it appears to all be correct. there was one banjo bolt that i had to replace, as i lost one, but it was a direct order from DMC. the black and blue rubber hoses with no hose clamps on them, I'd like to verify proper seating and placement on those next, and then electrical.

    Ron-is the air metering plate the plate that lies directly below the air cleaner? if so, then yes-it does provide a bit of resistance if i push it after attempting a start. if i attempt a 2nd start after depressing the metering plate, i don't get an initial "semi-fire" at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by NJP548 View Post
    I actually created a Fuel Host Diagram back in 2000 when the DML/DMCNews was the main source of DeLorean information on the Internet.

    Please see my diagram below. Hopefully it helps.

    Fuel System Hose Diagram.jpg

    -Nick Pitello

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjd2 View Post
    thanks! it does help. i've proofed my fuel lines, and it appears to all be correct. there was one banjo bolt that i had to replace, as i lost one, but it was a direct order from DMC. the black and blue rubber hoses with no hose clamps on them, I'd like to verify proper seating and placement on those next, and then electrical.

    Ron-is the air metering plate the plate that lies directly below the air cleaner? if so, then yes-it does provide a bit of resistance if i push it after attempting a start. if i attempt a 2nd start after depressing the metering plate, i don't get an initial "semi-fire" at all.
    Happy to hear it helped you! Good luck with the rest of your troubleshooting.

    -Nick Pitello

  10. #10
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    Join Date:  Mar 2016

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    Ok-made some progress. After reseating all of the electrical harnesses, the engine is now starting-however, it won't hold an idle at all. If I am not actively goosing the throttle, it stalls out immediately.

    I am not sure if this is related or not, but the very first time the engine started, it stalled out, and then the battery connection went cold. It was strange. I checked all the fuses, none were blown, and I opened the cover to the battery to check voltage on a DVM, and the panel lights just came back on. I'm assuming it was a strange isolated event, but figured I'd mention, in case it helps diagnose the issue.

    I believe the service manual said that after replacing the thermister, that the fuel distributor's mixture setting should be recalibrated; should I start there? I'm not sure where to start, since it won't hold an idle at all. Thanks everybody!!!

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