Proofing my work after fuel distribution re-assembly?

[rjd2]

As always, thanks for your help (Bitsyncmaster, you are a resource unto yourself, thank you!!!)

I tried starting the car with the idle speed motor plugged, and unplugged-same behavior. it will run if i keep the RPMS above 1000; below 1000 and it stalls out immediately.

I also tried swinging the mixture 1/4 turn in each direction, just to see if it had any effect on behavior(I knew I needed to do a proper calibration anyway). Same behavior.

And even with the air cleaner bolted down, if I run the car for 3-4 minutes, after it stalls it will not start after that. At all. Hmmm.....

[NckT]

Remove your idle motor and inspect it to see if the valve actually moves or if it is stuck in a position too far closed to give enough air flow to enable your car to idle

[rjd2]

I inspected the idle speed motor; it appears to be working correctly. I took the hose off that connects to the brass pipe, facing the rear of the vehicle, and turned the key to the "run" position. The valve turned all the way to the right (right being towards the center of the engine). Then, it held that position for a bit and then slowly went back to the original position.

I checked all my hose connections for the solenoid valve, and the purge control valve; I believe I have it all correct(i initially had the two hoses to the solenoid valve swapped; after putting these in the proper position, it still didn't change the behavior).

Once the engine reaches a reasonable warmed-up temp, it refuses to start at all. I have to wait til it cools down completely for it to start at all. Is that any possible clue?

[Ron]

Once the engine reaches a reasonable warmed-up temp, it refuses to start at all. I have to wait til it cools down completely for it to start at all. Is that any possible clue?

Did you try a shot of ether after it refused to start while warm?

========
$.02

1. Do the test(s) Elvis suggested, and followups..., FIRST.
2. If it will still idle with the IAC valve disconnected (as reported in other thread), attach the pressure gauge and report findings...

[rjd2]

Ron-not yet. I haven't been able to find it for sale...

[rjd2]

Alright, more info. I installed a fuel pressure gauge between the CPR and the fuel distribution unit. See attached; that reading of ~44PSI seems to hold pretty steady. No leaks. This last time trying to start the engine with the fuel pressure gauge installed, i could not get it to stay running. it turned over, sputtered a bit, did that 3x times, and then it didn't start at all.

Any idea what this means? Does this rule out fuel pressure as a possible culprit? Thanks for the help.

[rjd2]

FullSizeRender.jpg

[rjd2]

Sorry for the multiple posts; it is not clear to me how to edit previous posts, unfortunately. Please disregard the previous two posts about fuel pressure gauge behavior; it appears it is NOT working properly(i had the valve in the wrong position, whoops!

At the run position, the fuel pressure gauge stays at 30PSI. When I start the engine, it drops to about 15-20 PSI, and floats between those two numbers while I rev. Once it stalls out, it floats back up to 30PSI standing pressure. This seems low, no?

[rjd2]

Here is a video of the fuel pressure gauge behavior:

https://vimeo.com/user70661996

[Bitsyncmaster]

Try jumping the RPM relay so your not starting the engine. If your gauge has a shut off valve, you should get around 70 PSI with the valve shut. When the engine is cold you will get a low control pressure (valve open).

When the engine is started cold you run about 15 PSI and it quickly starts increasing and settles around 50 PSI on the hot engine.

When you shut the engine off you get rest pressure (same with the valve open or closed) which is normally about 42 PSI at first. My car it would take about 3 hours for that rest pressure to drop to zero.