Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: Cooling system (Fans working, but still showing hot)

  1. #21
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    6,561

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    The vendors sell a "kit" with the uprated circuit breakers and some relays. Make sure nothing is melting or heat-damaged, especially circuit #7. While you are at it make sure each and every fuse is the correct size for it's position and leave the cover off but nearby. If you still have the OEM door lock module disconnect the big red wire and stick a 10 AMP in-line fuse on it.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #22
    Senior Member Jonathan's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Canada

    Posts:    4,185

    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by Nate88 View Post
    I believe the breaker is original. The updated is 40amps correct?

    My cooling system seems tight and like I said had no issues like this before installing the bleeder. My thought was that it’s a “good idea” and it seems many other cars have them so I thought why not. Also I’m trying to get it more ready for DCS which was another reason why I thought the bleeder would be a good idea. I want to upgrade some of the relays and breakers before DCS so maybe I should do this soon.
    Maybe all you did was introduce some air into the system when you installed the auto-bleeder? It happens. I've done a few "proactive" maintenance jobs on the car and more than a couple of them have caused more problems than they solved. I default to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset more often now. And real, actual issues, not just ones I think are happening because I may or may not have heard a noise or noticed something odd. That's my reliability advice for the day for you.

  3. #23
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2016

    Location:  Ohio

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    2805

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    The vendors sell a "kit" with the uprated circuit breakers and some relays. Make sure nothing is melting or heat-damaged, especially circuit #7. While you are at it make sure each and every fuse is the correct size for it's position and leave the cover off but nearby. If you still have the OEM door lock module disconnect the big red wire and stick a 10 AMP in-line fuse on it.
    I'm purchasing a kit and uprating the breakers. I talked to the mechanic that has worked on the car before and he said it sounded like a fan may have cut out. I still need to look for any signs of heat in the relay compartment, but at least I have updated ones coming.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Maybe all you did was introduce some air into the system when you installed the auto-bleeder? It happens. I've done a few "proactive" maintenance jobs on the car and more than a couple of them have caused more problems than they solved. I default to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset more often now. And real, actual issues, not just ones I think are happening because I may or may not have heard a noise or noticed something odd. That's my reliability advice for the day for you.
    Thanks for the advice! I thought about the introduction of air into the system when I installed the auto bleeder, but that was a month ago with a lot of driving in between. My understanding (and I'm probably wrong) if there is air in the system you'd see it pretty quickly. But like I said above, the mechanic thinks a fan may have cut out so that's my next step to look for. The cooling system is the only thing so far (*knocks on wood*) that has left me stranded, so I'm still nervous when it comes to that.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •