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Thread: Refurbing a Very Early A/C System

  1. #41
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    A/C Hub Adapter assembly

    While waiting for the compressor paint to cure, I assembled the pressure release valve (106918 ) and the high pressure switch (106917) onto the hub adapter (110527):


    I began removing 30 years of oxidation off the hub adapter using Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish, (or maybe it was raw aluminum anyway). I also replaced the Schrader valve in the high pressure switch fitting with a new one featuring neoprene seals. I think DMC already replaced it as the old one was the same as my new one. I used this "Slime" valve core tool (#20178 ) that clicks/releases when the valve is sufficiently tight:


    I also replaced the 3 O-rings with HNBR versions that I got from the same kit listed in an earlier post, soaking them in mineral oil first and using oil on the threads:


    Both switches tightened, and the polishing done. I used two small applications of the polish and just a bit of rubbing it in and off with a shop paper towel and it turned out better than I expected. Also, I think I'll find a suitable rubber plug for the hole in the top of the pressure release valve to keep water out of it:


    Other than that, this is ready to go on the car.
    Last edited by DMC-81; 10-12-2017 at 09:56 PM.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  2. #42
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Finishing up Compressor

    I found this little nylon beauty plug locally at Ace Hardware to cover the hole in the top of the pressure release valve. That should stop water and dirt without impeding the function:


    The compressor paint is sufficiently cured, so I reassembled the front portion, clutch coil first. As before, the beveled side of the snap ring faces you:


    Pulley installed. I put some oil around the inside of the bearing race and tapped it in place using a rubber hammer. Then the snap ring:


    Next, I installed the 2 shims and then positioned the armature plate in place after putting a little bit of oil around where it presses onto the shaft. I used a 19 mm socket in the center and tapped it in place using a rubber hammer.


    I used OEM A/C Clutch Holding Tool ( part # 27000) and a 19mm socket to torque the armature nut to 25.5 ft/lbs. Then I checked the air gap. As Dennis mentioned earlier the spec is .016" to .031" . Mine was .025" :


    Compressor ready to be re-installed:
    Last edited by DMC-81; 10-15-2017 at 01:52 AM.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  3. #43
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

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    Dana,

    It seems like you skipped over the part of piston and swash plate reassembly. Did you replace the Rings? I assume the pistons and cylinder bores showed no signs of wear.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #44
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Dana,

    It seems like you skipped over the part of piston and swash plate reassembly.
    Hi Dennis,

    Sorry, here is the piston & swashplate assembly ready to go back together. I re-assembled it by orienting the pinion and ball bearing with the 5 pistons closed in around it, then positioning the woodruff key and spring in the case, then carefully lowering the piston/swashplate assembly down in the case. It took half a dozen tries to get it seated so I could then position each piston in the cylinders. I lubed each part with mineral oil, applied by a clean artists brush:


    Here is the assembly installed in the original orientation:


    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Did you replace the Rings? I assume the pistons and cylinder bores showed no signs of wear.
    Although Sanden says the piston assembly cannot be refurbished ( i.e. rings, etc), you are correct that there was no scoring in either the bores or the pistons or any sign of wear. After the compressor was put back together, I turned the armature slowly by hand and I could feel a slight suction. I don't know how fast it has to move for there to be real suction for a test.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  5. #45
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Refurbing a Very Early A/C System

    Thanks for the added info.

    At some point this thread needs to be placed in the How To Section. Great detail write ups and photo documenting. Granted most folks would not go through the tear down like you have but still great stuff. It also takes a lot of the mystery out of what’s inside a typical A/C compressor.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 10-15-2017 at 09:58 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #46
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Thanks for the added info.

    At some point this thread needs to be placed in the How To Section. Great detail write ups and photo documenting. Granted most folks would not go through the tear down like you have but still great stuff. It also takes a lot of the mystery out of what’s inside a typical A/C compressor.
    You're welcome, and thanks for the compliment. I hope that it is useful to anyone reading it.

    My next post will be flushing.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  7. #47
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Flushing the system

    Next, it was time to flush the A/C system to remove old oil and any debris. I used this OEM Automotive A/C Flushing Kit (part # 91046-A-AZ ). It worked beautifully! Just pour in 32 oz of mineral spirits, connect to your air compressor, and hold the nozzle tight against the hose/part you are flushing.


    Here is the set-up I used to control the flushing output. A short length of appropriately sized hose and a bucket.


    After I arranged the hose and bucket, I covered it with some heavy plastic sheeting to help control the mist/splash.


    I covered the hoses at the compressor end with some old heavy bath towels to protect the area from blowback. Then I used the Flushing Kit on these ends of the hoses. I flushed the low pressure line, the high pressure line & condenser, the liquid line, and finally the evaporator separately (with 32 oz of mineral spirits per section).


    Here is the mineral spirits after the flushing. It seemed that most of the old oil was in the evaporator. I researched it and it seems my blockage was too much oil in the evaporator, and the condition is called "oil logged". It took extra effort to clean it all out.


    Now the system is clean. I'll connect all the hoses possible and put the A/C Hub Adapter on next.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  8. #48
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Connecting Hoses and Finishing Compressor

    The next task was to connect all the hoses, finish the compressor, and connect the new AC Hub Adapter.

    First, I replaced the O-rings for the pad fitting with ones from the same HNBR O-ring assortment (Santech MT 2547). This kit had all O-Rings that didn't come in the compressor gasket kits.



    Then connecting the GM pad fittingsto the back of the compressor. I applied a little bit of anti-seize to the 3/8”-24 Pad Fitting bolt and progressively torqued it to 29 ft/lbs:


    Next, I replaced the service valves with neoprene versions using the Slime valve core tool. I also polished the brass caps with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish:


    I added 8 oz of mineral oil to the compressor: 6 oz before installing it so I could rotate and tilt it to coat the full crankcase, and then 2 oz after it was installed:


    I lubed the new HNBR O-Ring for the oil plug and torqued it to 15 ft/lb. The socket size was 17 mm:


    I replaced and tightened the belt, and now the compressor ready for service:


    Then, I replaced the O-Ring at the top fitting of the condenser. All O-rings were soaked in Mineral oil for at least overnight, plus I swabbed the threads with oil. I used a 1 and 1/16” angled service wrench to hold the condenser fitting stable and a 7/8” wrench for the high pressure hose:



    Next was the A/C Hub Adapter. Adding this will solve a shortcoming of the Very Early A/C Setup. I used a 1 1/16” angled service wrench to hold the bottom condenser fitting stable, and a 3/4” wrench for the adapter nut:


    Then the condenser to evaporator line. I was careful to position this line so that it has gentle rather than sharp curves:


    When my accumulator arrives from Original Air, I'll connect that and install the Orifice tube.
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

  9. #49
    Senior Member NckT's Avatar
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    Exciting times, you're almost there !
    RIP Rob van de Veer Top bloke

    I say Sir, I must be mad, one loves fixing K-Jet !

    Make sure there's plenty in the tank for the weekend chaps....

  10. #50
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Orifice Tube and Accumulator Installation

    Quote Originally Posted by NckT View Post
    Exciting times, you're almost there !
    Thanks! I got a lot done I the last 24 hours:

    I got the accumulator so I proceeded to install the Orifice Tube/Valve. Here is the new fixed version (Santech MT 0097-1) compared to the old one. I used the same OEM Orifice tube tool to insert it. A long running A/C shop advised that a Variable Orifice Tube was not needed for R12, so I stuck with the original fixed version.


    I clicked the tube in place and lubed its o-ring well before inserting it:


    This is how far the tube was inserted. It just needed a gentle push to seat the o-ring:


    Here is a picture of the orifice tube fully inserted:


    My Accumulator arrived from being rebuilt by Original Air/Classic Air in Tampa. I am impressed at the quality of the work.


    I replaced my Low Pressure/Cycling Switch with this exact replacement (Santech MT 0207):


    New HNBR o-ring for the suction hose to accumulator, again from the same kit. The hose end uses a 1 and 1/4" wrench, and the lower fitting on the accumulator uses a 1 and 1/16" wrench:


    ...and, a new O-ring for the evaporator to accumulator, again lubing the threads. This nut uses a 1 and 1/16" wrench. I was able to just use my crow's foot wrench to tighten this one.


    Accumulator installed. As NktT suggested, I connected a vacuum pump beforehand, and immediately started pumping the system down after the accumulator was connected. The liquid line to evaporator fitting used a 3/4" crow's foot on the evaporator end to hold it stable, and a 7/8" wrench on the hose nut. All these o-ring fittings didn't need a lot of torque.. just hand tight :


    Next was installing the bracket and the 6mm bolt ( 10 mm tool) . I installed a new o-ring and lubed it and the threads, and gently tightened the plastic threads of the switch with a 5/8" wrench:


    After connecting the harness, the early accumulator is refurbished and installed:


    I vacuumed down the system overnight, and in the morning I shut off both red and blue valves and then turned off the pump. Here is the initial reading, 30 in/hg. After 4 hours, it maintained that reading:


    I have an appointment this afternoon with an A/C shop to have it vacuumed again and then charged. Fingers crossed!!
    Dana

    Delorean status: CECF 2017 Platinum Award winner. Still tinkering...

    Pictures and comments of my restoration journey are in the albums section on my profile.

    .

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