I was bleeding my brakes and I realized the drivers side rear has no juice. Can I assume there is a blocage or kink in that line? What would be my first thing to do.
Thanks in advance.
I was bleeding my brakes and I realized the drivers side rear has no juice. Can I assume there is a blocage or kink in that line? What would be my first thing to do.
Thanks in advance.
Barry
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,385
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
Are you using a pressure bleeder?
Work backwards. Disconnect the hard line at the calliper, if still nothing remove the soft line at the trailing arm. Chances are if there is a blockage it's either the caliper or the softline has collapsed
Dave
Here, somewhere.
I had a similar issue when redoing the brakes on my car. Mine were completely seized since it was a car that sat for about 15 years. After rebuilding the calipers and bleeding it turned out that the rubber hoses that connect to the caliper had collapsed keeping the fluid from entering. I forget if I had trouble getting fluid into more than just one caliper, but I played it safe and replaced all four. It's around $120 for the full set from delorean.com
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 2,208
My VIN: 4877
Club(s): (PNDC)
Not to hijack..but I'm thinking of digging into my brakes and wondered about what the best, inexpensive bleeders there are, since I dont have someone to help.
Rob Depew
Tacoma, Wa
'81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
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Ok thanks for the advice, I will check the lines. I will also remove the calipers for now, but I think it's time to start changing out parts, a good winter project.
Barry
I always have hell with self bleeders and end up getting a helper to push down on the pedal while I crack the bleeder valves. Have you tried that yet?
Jeff
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 490
My VIN: 04194: 5-Speed, Black Int, 79 Peugeot 604 Manifold, 05052: 5-Speed, Gray Int, 78 Peugeot 604 manifol
I have seen clogged hoses and clogged passageways in the front calipers. Both are commonly seen after long-term storage.
There is no need to spend $120 on a set of brake hoses. I have personally verified both front and rear brake hose cross references that can be ordered from Rockauto for less than $8.50 each.
Andrew
4194 Since 7/98
5052 Since 7/14
1972 Buick Riviera
1974 Bricklin SV-1 177
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 (4.2 I6, 4 Speed)
1983 Pontiac Trans Am (Knight Rider Conversion in progress)
1985 Oldsmobile Toronado (daily driver)
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"My carbon footprint is bigger than yours!" :-)
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
If you have a bad hose you should replace them all. Most auto stores sell what is called a "One Man Bleeder". It is a check valve with some hoses attached. Very simple to use and inexpensive. Just keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off so you don't suck in air and have to start all over again.
David Teitelbaum
There are three kinds of self-bleeder kits: Bottle w/check valve. Negative Pressure, and Positive Pressure.
Bottle w/check valve: Do not waste your money on these. They're beyond difficult to work with because they never work right, and you will regret it.
Negative Pressure ones are where you have a vacuum pump at the caliper, and you pull the hydraulic fluid out. Works okay, but if you're flushing your brake lines out for maintenance, or if you've replaced a hose, the tiny-ass tank will frustrate you because you have to keep dumping it. Plus you have to keep pumping at the same time.
Positive Pressure bleeders are amazing. It's a tank you fill with brake fluid, connect to the Master Cylinder Reservoir, pump up to 15 psi, and then just crack the calipers to bleed each one. That's it. Fast, easy, quick, less mess.
Now, you can either buy these bleeder kits, or you can make your own. It's literally just a bug sprayer with a pressure gauge and a brake fluid cap. I built one using a sprayer, a tire pressure gauge, a brake cap from an Audi, some threaded and barbed fittings, a length of hose, and some instant gasket sealant. There are no funnels needed, no second person, no risk of damage to the internal pistons of the Master Cylinder, a reduced chance of getting bubbles in the lines, and it's fast as hell.
Last edited by DMCVegas; 09-08-2017 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Added another bleeder.
Robert
People they come together, people they fall apart...
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,578
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
I don't know why you say the "Bottle w/check valve" is no good. Once you learn how to use it, it is the fastest, most convenient way to do it by yourself. I do not like the vacuum method because you wind up drawing in air from around the threads of the bleeder nipple so you are never sure when you got all of the air out. The pressure bleeder is good but the equipment can be expensive and some reservoirs (not on Deloreans) are not made to take ANY pressure so you can blow them up. Even on a Delorean you must be careful not to use too much pressure. Also wastes a lot of brake fluid. IMHO the very best way is to use the one man bleeder (your first option) but use it with an assistant to pump the brakes.
David Teitelbaum