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Thread: Inertia switch failure, tripping thermal relay of door lock electrical?

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    You cannot test them properly with an ohmmeter, you would have to use an inductance meter. Guaranteed you burnt them, you will see when you unwind the coils.
    Ohmmeter would be just as good checking as inductance. If some of the windings shorted it would result in less ohms. The same would hold true for reading inductance.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Ohmmeter would be just as good checking as inductance. If some of the windings shorted it would result in less ohms. The same would hold true for reading inductance.
    What he said! I completely agree with you, I feel better now.

  3. #23
    Member NckT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    You cannot test them properly with an ohmmeter, you would have to use an inductance meter. Guaranteed you burnt them, you will see when you unwind the coils.
    Without going to the n'th degree of applying a sinusoidal frequency to the inductor to quantify the Q value of an inductor ie the solenoid coil, it'll be much easier to measure the resistance of each coil at the disconnected church window electrical plug at the central locking module. From here, it's easy to 'momentarily' (less than 2 seconds) apply 12v from the central locking circuit breaker to each individual solenoid from this point to check that each solenoid operates the door lock/ unlock mechanism.

    If the resistance values are within 5% of each other and work as tested above, I'd leave the solenoids in place.

    However, if one of the relays in the locking module has stuck on for a long period with the main lead of the vena locking module connected to the circuit breaker, then chances are the solenoid would be suspect of having a partial short.

    Good luck with the tests
    Last edited by NckT; 09-14-2017 at 12:57 PM.
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  4. #24
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ritztoys View Post
    Even though they 'seem' to operate correctly now? Also it was only the passenger door that was affected.

    Can I check the resistance of these coils before removing & rewinding?

    So.......does someone have access to your door solenoids and can measure these values of an nu-burnt solenoid? (Measure this at White connector, after it is separated from wiring harness. Since mine may be 'burnt'?)
    I think there may be some information in this thread where I repaired my stock lock system. Look on page 6 , post 60 for the resistance: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...-and-solenoids
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Ohmmeter would be just as good checking as inductance. If some of the windings shorted it would result in less ohms. The same would hold true for reading inductance.
    I am surprised you said this. An ohmmeter isn't sensitive enough and even if you get one that is sensitive, the tolerance is bigger than any difference you would see in ohms. Only by "ringing" the coil can you tell if it has shorted turns. Not necessary if you melted the relay contacts and were tripping the circuit beaker. All of that power going into the coils most certainly burnt them up. Will it still work, maybe but it will have much less power and will consume a LOT more current. Enough to eventually kill the Lockzilla. One way to see how bad it is, put a 10 amp in-line fuse into the big red wire and see if it blows. If the solenoids consume 10 amps they are burnt.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #26
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    I am surprised you said this. An ohmmeter isn't sensitive enough and even if you get one that is sensitive, the tolerance is bigger than any difference you would see in ohms. Only by "ringing" the coil can you tell if it has shorted turns. Not necessary if you melted the relay contacts and were tripping the circuit beaker. All of that power going into the coils most certainly burnt them up. Will it still work, maybe but it will have much less power and will consume a LOT more current. Enough to eventually kill the Lockzilla. One way to see how bad it is, put a 10 amp in-line fuse into the big red wire and see if it blows. If the solenoids consume 10 amps they are burnt.
    Check one with your inductance meter and tell me what the inductance is and what frequency your meter uses. I will see if I get the same results.
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  7. #27
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    I would if I could but I don't have an inductance meter. I know a 10 amp fuse won't blow on good solenoids unless you lock and unlock them a bunch of times quickly. An amp-meter won't get a good reading because it is too quick to get an accurate reading. The variation between good coils will be larger than anything you will see on an ohmmeter if you check it against a burnt coil. For the CB to pop you are consuming a lot more than 10 amps and it keeps resetting putting MORE power into the coils getting them hotter and hotter. Eventually you drain the battery. Doesn't take long but til then you can't unlock the doors to get out.
    David Teitelbaum

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