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Thread: Brake Bleeding Order on Completely Dry, NEW System?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Brake Bleeding Order on Completely Dry, NEW System?

    Hello DMC Talk! What a day. I'm almost there.

    I've got all the calipers rebuilt and together, a new master cylinder bench bled (or will be tomorrow) new SS lines, I'm stoked.

    Now... I start the task of bleeding this completely dry system.

    Anyone have an order? I couldn't find an order in the book, or online, figured I'd ask. Also I figured it might be slightly more difficult (see: annoying) because the system is bone dry. Can anyone give me a wheel by wheel order? Thank you!

    What I finished today

    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  2. #2
    Not a self styled 'Guru'
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Surrey, United Kingdom

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    The bleed order is in the book.

    Offside rear
    Nearside rear
    Offside front
    Nearside front

    Longest run to shortest run.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeWard View Post
    The bleed order is in the book.

    Offside rear
    Nearside rear
    Offside front
    Nearside front

    Longest run to shortest run.
    The order really isn't that important. I do recommend you bench-bleed the master cylinder before installing it. Bleed all of the calipers at least twice.
    David Teitelbaum

  4. #4
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
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    Thank you! Must have missed it in the book
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    The front and rear are two separate systems so it doesn't matter if you do the front or rear first. The systems are very symmetrical so it is about the same length to either side so it really doesn't matter if you do the left side or the right side first. No matter what order you do it in, be consistent. Always do it the same way, that way you will not forget or skip a wheel. Recheck the reservoir after bleeding EACH wheel. If you let the reservoir run dry and get air into the system, you must start all over again from the beginning. I suggest you do F/L, F/R, R/L and finally R/R.
    Last edited by David T; 09-17-2017 at 08:29 PM.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuclearbacon View Post
    Hello DMC Talk! What a day. I'm almost there.

    I've got all the calipers rebuilt and together, a new master cylinder bench bled (or will be tomorrow) new SS lines, I'm stoked.

    Now... I start the task of bleeding this completely dry system.

    Anyone have an order? I couldn't find an order in the book, or online, figured I'd ask. Also I figured it might be slightly more difficult (see: annoying) because the system is bone dry. Can anyone give me a wheel by wheel order? Thank you!

    What I finished today
    Nice work! I see you went with the SS pistons. Me too. I agree with Mike Ward. That's the order that I bled them in and it worked like a charm. Like you, I was bleeding a completely dry, refurbished system.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  7. #7
    Senior Member Nuclearbacon's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Santa Cruz, Ca

    Posts:    209

    My VIN:    10588

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    I ...found the page. It's a full page. Thank you all!

    Yes! SS pistons, SS lines, and I even replaced my bracket behind the brake booster to DPi's SS beefy monster. New DMC master up front and pads all around. Should be really nice!
    -Luigi-
    Thank you ALL for your patience and your tremendous help!

    1982 VIN#10588 Build Date Dec '81

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Some more info. When you do start to drive the car on the new brakes, take it easy on them for the first 500 miles. No panic stops, and try not to get them very hot till they "bed" in. If you do use them too aggressively, you can glaze the surface of the rotors and you will not get good braking. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir and if you see it going down you have a leak.
    David Teitelbaum

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