Adding aftermarket radio, Looking for switched and constant 12V power.

[Shep]

Wat. Geez guys, get on the ball. Update the page or ship...

I have one and won't be using it. The connectors are fairly standard, even DigiKey has them. But if you want, I can send it your way. I think I labeled the wires individually even. Hit me up via PM if you're interested.

There's a few other sites like Eastern Beaver that carry the connectors too (the one with the beaver riding the motorcycle). Or was it British Wiring I'm thinking of?

[Nuclearbacon]

Wat. Geez guys, get on the ball. Update the page or ship...

I have one and won't be using it. The connectors are fairly standard, even DigiKey has them. But if you want, I can send it your way. I think I labeled the wires individually even. Hit me up via PM if you're interested.

There's a few other sites like Eastern Beaver that carry the connectors too (the one with the beaver riding the motorcycle). Or was it British Wiring I'm thinking of?

I really appreciate it! The PO had done...something to the original wiring harness. I found the female end back there but all cut up. So I removed the added wires going to the speakers and I will be wiring the speakers directly with new wiring to the radio. I'll be looking for the Green/White wire for switched power (didn't get a chance yesterday) behind the radio, and I'll be running constant 12v from the purple wire (with a fuse inline on both)

I also purchased an antenna extension cable to connect to the power antenna for AM/FM signal, and I found all the wiring for that too (disconnected behind the driver seat) I'll be wiring that up and see if the antenna goes up! (I hope so, I totally want that look, otherwise I'll be replacing that)

The radio is now sitting in its home, waiting for wiring! I'm on the radio tonight and tomorrow night (like broadcasting, not standing on a radio), so I won't be able to mess with it maybe until Friday. Saturday I'm going to be messing with the AC system too, and bleeding the brakes. FUN!!!!!!

Going back to my original idea of the add-a-fuse, the reason I felt the add-a-fuse would be ok, was because I was adding it to a circuit that exists already, but isn't used. I hardly ever use my cigar lighter, and I don't have a clock. So I was literally just using the fuse-plug as a receptacle and running the same rating out of it. But! If the fuse block is as bad as people say (mine is in fine condition, no melty friends, and all new fuses and relays from 2011 DMC) I'll just tap into a wire. My idea was instead of finding switched wires and constant wires, I'd come straight off the fuse block. I totally get why not to do it and doubling up, I just figured I was re-purposing a non-used part. my $0.02

Thank you all for the responses. I learn something every day! I love this forum!

[Shep]

Sure thing! PM me your address, I'll get it sent out soon. Need to grab it from my old house, won't be able to until Friday evening, but definitely will send it your way!

I'll be wiring [the power antenna] up and see if the antenna goes up! (I hope so, I totally want that look, otherwise I'll be replacing that)

Save replacement, they can be rebuilt rather easily. Usually needs a bit of lubricant on the sections. Once disassembled, WD-40 the shafts, wipe with paper towels until clean, let dry, wipe again, then use silicone lubricant and smother it on there. Something like this stuff from WD-40's "professional" line. I've been using that approach on my 3D printers with excellent results.

I've always been a fan of "fix it to better-than-replacement quality". A little elbow grease can literally save you thousands on these cars. Heck, saved myself $30 by re-soldering a cheap Chinese power supply that had terrible solder joints, some even missing (there was arcing and an almost-fire on my soldering desk when I first turned it on, to put it that way). After fixing it, that sucker will last for 30 years or more, well beyond the six months Chinese factories make them for.

I'm on the radio tonight and tomorrow night (like broadcasting, not standing on a radio)

Aww... The visual was so appealing too...

Going back to my original idea of the add-a-fuse, the reason I felt the add-a-fuse would be ok, was because I was adding it to a circuit that exists already, but isn't used. I hardly ever use my cigar lighter, and I don't have a clock. So I was literally just using the fuse-plug as a receptacle and running the same rating out of it. But! If the fuse block is as bad as people say (mine is in fine condition, no melty friends, and all new fuses and relays from 2011 DMC) I'll just tap into a wire. My idea was instead of finding switched wires and constant wires, I'd come straight off the fuse block. I totally get why not to do it and doubling up, I just figured I was re-purposing a non-used part. my $0.02

Add-a-fuse is great for low power circuits like dash cams and such. Not so much for radios where the entirety of the sound is powered straight from that fuse tap. Frankly, I'd almost argue a tiny amplifier would do wonders. Nothing beefy, heck 100W would be overkill to me, just something small that can give you both better sound quality and a valid excuse to hook up straight to the battery.

[Shep]

Found 'em: Eastern Beaver (Ctrl-F for "9 position")

British Wiring does NOT carry it, but does carry other DeLorean connectors (most notably the "church steeple" kind used in the doors and in the front turn signals).

[Nuclearbacon]

Amazing! Ok check it out. I believe this is my black ground wire (bottom left) and the green/white switched power right?? (right hand side?) Both have white connectors.



Can someone confirm? My battery is out of the car

[Shep]

Okay, crap, I cannot for the life of me find the harness anywhere. I'm kinda mad at myself, I wanted to pick up some door lenses too and failed to find them either. Meanwhile all the sellable parts I have are still there...

Anyways, here's a thought too: since you're completely redoing the stock sound system, and the original harness lets you do at most six speakers (assuming GND, ACC, 12V are the first three and all three separate grounds) with fairly low gauge wiring, I've seen some guys pick up run-of-the-mill Metra harnesses, both "reverse" (car's end) and forward (radio's end), and simply splice the wiring into it.

My personal favorite for the task, the metra 7*-1761. The 71-1761 is the end that splices into the car and plugs into the radio, the 70-1761 is the end that you would attach to the new radio. Found on my Dad's 1993 Jag and also on my 2015 Impreza, and is labeled "1987-up Toyota/Scion, so it's seen widespread continual use across a variety of manufacturers and the wire gauge is thick enough to not be restricting either. It won't power a sub, but it will most definitely be plenty to deafen you with the woofer mids if you so choose (the radio you got won't deafen you, but should sound awesome truth be told).

They're available from a variety of places, honestly, eBay + PayPal and you'll find it dirt cheap. Best Buy wants $17 each for them, I've seen far lower elsewhere.

EDIT:
Oh, and if you later want to add a sub to the system, that wiring setup, as long as you wire it the same as the Metra harness is labeled, will let you put aftermarket "under-seat" Subaru guys there. Can be found for $50 to $100 a pop on eBay. I have one myself, it doesn't sound bad actually, and is an 8" sub. Flat guy, the plugs are an "in-line" style, so no splicing required. Other manufacturers might have other options too.

[Nuclearbacon]

Great idea! I'm kinda... already doing that ... sorta. The RetroSound gives me a wire output (like the metra) and then I'll just run new speaker wire, connect ground, constant, and switched, and the radio has pre-outs for everything if I want to expand. I have a beefy sound system in my 2.65rs Subaru that I built, this is just going to be some tunes. I should be able to implement my plan this weekend... as well as bleeding the brakes and possibly redoing the AC.

[Shep]

Relevant schematic (I7 and J7 for radio).

Black is usually ground, yes. Best way to tell: multimeter set to measure ohms, touch one of the fenders and the other probe on the wires. Fenders are grounded under the bonnet's "slam padding" (there's a term for that stuff, I don't know it offhand though), so it will measure continuity.

EDIT: Also look here for searchable versions: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...wiring-diagram

[David T]

The body panels are grounded by bonding wires to each other and eventually to the frame. Don't count on it though, those bonding wires corrode to the point that they no longer connect. Best to test at the battery negative terminal to verify ground connections. While it is true black is ground for the wiring harness, don't trust that. Very common for someone to add or modify things and use black wire and not necessarily for grounds. There is a grounding point right by the radio on the metal frame under the console. If you are adding a more powerful radio the best advice is to run a separate ground wire just for that. The rule-of-thumb is that the ground wire should be at least as heavy as the power lead. If you are running a new, thicker wire to power the radio then you should be doing the same for the ground. If I was doing this to my car I would run that bigger ground wire to the metal frame of the console and then back to the battery.

[Nuclearbacon]

I have grounding wire twice the gauge as my power wire. I will run a new ground to the metal in the car and test. I will test the green/white for 12v switched and report back!