Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,579
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
But you get my point. All of the "heavy lifting" to R & R the transmission is being done, it just makes sense to go over the insides of it. Especially if you do not know the history and if it was ever abused from driving it with a bad clutch hydraulic system. Being a 30 + year old car, changing the seals is probably due anyway. If you can't do this yourself and are on a very tight budget I can understand how you would be tempted to forgo touching the tranny. If you have to pay someone to do it, it will cost a LOT more than $0.20!
David Teitelbaum
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
We use the alpine clutch on all of our performance builds along with a custom stepped flywheel spec. This does require a different master cylinder configuration as the stock unit makes the car hard to drive. You find yourself putting a little more than desired body weight into every shift.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Posts: 990
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Stock application yes for sure. We do install these in cars that are not boosted for owners eventually wanting to do the upgrade completely. IE forged internal bottom end with ports and return fittings installed for turbochargers. On boosted applications its all about how you beat on the component. It is a giving device that supplies a slip between to components. Its wear life is subject to this process and how it is used.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Yeah, even if you do the transmission refurb yourself, you're looking at roughly $300 as a best case cost above the clutch parts and flywheel resurfacing. If you run into pitted drive axle flanges, a rusted clutch fork, or opt for upgraded parts (e.g. a Nachi pilot bearing or a bulletproof coupler) that's all extra. That also doesn't include refurbing the drive axles.
At a minimum, I recommend to anyone removing the transmission that they remove the rear cover and check/add red loctite to the secondary shaft nut. (Ask me how I know ). In fact, that can be done with the transmission in the car.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Yes!
Our complete hydraulic kit offering is here:
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/cl...lics-complete/
This is a front to back update on the car. Gets rid of the hard line section across the transmission and includes mounting brackets etc to run the line. Also no issues trying to seal the system as with the factory flare fittings. Everything is switched over to AN. Res. is updated and the failure prone feed line to the master is updated as well to a braided section with AN fittings.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters