Clutch died

[dn010]

you didn't replace a $0.20 roll pin.

While I understand your point, you're misleading people when you say this since you'll also need gaskets, seals, sealants, oil, locknuts etc. It costs more than twenty pennies.

[David T]

While I understand your point, you're misleading people when you say this since you'll also need gaskets, seals, sealants, oil, locknuts etc. It costs more than twenty pennies.

But you get my point. All of the "heavy lifting" to R & R the transmission is being done, it just makes sense to go over the insides of it. Especially if you do not know the history and if it was ever abused from driving it with a bad clutch hydraulic system. Being a 30 + year old car, changing the seals is probably due anyway. If you can't do this yourself and are on a very tight budget I can understand how you would be tempted to forgo touching the tranny. If you have to pay someone to do it, it will cost a LOT more than $0.20!

[FABombjoy]

Question for the Master of Bitsyncs: how many miles did you get out of your clutch? This is always a subject I'm interested in. The consensus I'm getting is that 50K miles is pretty good for a clutch in these things. SAD!

It's crazy, right? Based on the pics the clutch discs seem to show minimal wear. The pressure plates must have tinfoil springs.

Seems like the stock Valeo p/n is questionable (801300).
Anyone tried an Alpine turbo clutch (801299) or any other Alpine clutch options?

[Delorean Industries]

It's crazy, right? Based on the pics the clutch discs seem to show minimal wear. The pressure plates must have tinfoil springs.

Seems like the stock Valeo p/n is questionable (801300).
Anyone tried an Alpine turbo clutch (801299) or any other Alpine clutch options?

We use the alpine clutch on all of our performance builds along with a custom stepped flywheel spec. This does require a different master cylinder configuration as the stock unit makes the car hard to drive. You find yourself putting a little more than desired body weight into every shift.

[SamHill]

We use the alpine clutch on all of our performance builds along with a custom stepped flywheel spec. This does require a different master cylinder configuration as the stock unit makes the car hard to drive. You find yourself putting a little more than desired body weight into every shift.

Without holding you to it, would expect the DPI Alpine Clutch/different master to last roughly twice as long?

[Delorean Industries]

Without holding you to it, would expect the DPI Alpine Clutch/different master to last roughly twice as long?

Stock application yes for sure. We do install these in cars that are not boosted for owners eventually wanting to do the upgrade completely. IE forged internal bottom end with ports and return fittings installed for turbochargers. On boosted applications its all about how you beat on the component. It is a giving device that supplies a slip between to components. Its wear life is subject to this process and how it is used.

[DMC-81]

But you get my point. All of the "heavy lifting" to R & R the transmission is being done, it just makes sense to go over the insides of it. Especially if you do not know the history and if it was ever abused from driving it with a bad clutch hydraulic system. Being a 30 + year old car, changing the seals is probably due anyway. If you can't do this yourself and are on a very tight budget I can understand how you would be tempted to forgo touching the tranny. If you have to pay someone to do it, it will cost a LOT more than $0.20!

Yeah, even if you do the transmission refurb yourself, you're looking at roughly $300 as a best case cost above the clutch parts and flywheel resurfacing. If you run into pitted drive axle flanges, a rusted clutch fork, or opt for upgraded parts (e.g. a Nachi pilot bearing or a bulletproof coupler) that's all extra. That also doesn't include refurbing the drive axles.

At a minimum, I recommend to anyone removing the transmission that they remove the rear cover and check/add red loctite to the secondary shaft nut. (Ask me how I know ). In fact, that can be done with the transmission in the car.

[FABombjoy]

Awesome, that's good to know!

the stock unit makes the car hard to drive

This is pretty much a free-standing statement anyway, depending on the person

I'll never forget my first and only parade experience.

[BABIS]

This does require a different master cylinder configuration as the stock unit makes the car hard to drive. You find yourself putting a little more than desired body weight into every shift.

Josh is possible to buy the new master alone ?

[Delorean Industries]

Yes!

Our complete hydraulic kit offering is here:

http://www.deloreanindustries.com/cl...lics-complete/

This is a front to back update on the car. Gets rid of the hard line section across the transmission and includes mounting brackets etc to run the line. Also no issues trying to seal the system as with the factory flare fittings. Everything is switched over to AN. Res. is updated and the failure prone feed line to the master is updated as well to a braided section with AN fittings.