Clutch died

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was driving to a tech session this morning. I was in 5 th gear going about 60 MPH and suddenly my engine RPM shot up. Thinking maybe it slipped out of gear I continued on. Shortly later it did it again. Kept trying and it just keep getting more often so I pulled off the highway and checked the clutch fluid. Fluid was OK so I turned around and tried to get home (1 hour drive). Well I would get less distance each time and finally stopped and called a tow truck.

There was really no sign of slipping it would just act like the clutch was depressed suddenly. Happened in all gears. When I got home I was able to back up and pull forward into the garage.

So anyway, without a lift what's the best solution? I'm just guessing the clutch plate is to thin but I thought that would show slipping going up a hill.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My photo of shame First time on a tow truck.

[Rich]

Yes, classic symptoms of a worn-out clutch disc. Sorry to see the sad picture but no shame since there's no preventive maintenance for clutch discs.

Clutch hydraulics aren't the problem since the failure mode for that system is a fully-engaged clutch. The slip problem may come and go with temperature in there, perhaps a reason it worked OK after the tow home.

Very small chance your pressure plate failed but the access for that is the same as for the clutch, so in you go.

If you plan to do it in your garage then the engine and tranny come out the back together. Plenty of guidance on that method in Section C:04 of the Workshop Manual - and in this forum. The manual also tells how to drop the transmission, engine-in, in a different section but that's a lift job.

Good time to renew your motor/transmission mounts, among several other things.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you plan to do it in your garage then the engine and tranny come out the back together. Plenty of guidance on that method in Section C:04 of the Workshop Manual - and in this forum. The manual also tells how to drop the transmission, engine-in, in a different section but that's a lift job.

Thanks. I have steel I beams supporting the ceiling in my garage. Would it be possible to lift the engine and tranny with a come along and push the car out? So in other words do I need the car off the wheels when removing the the engine and tranny?

[David T]

You do not have to remove the motor. It can be done by lifting the car up high on jack stands and taking the transmission out underneath using a floor jack. Hardest part is getting all of the covers off of the bell housing. If you do leave the motor in you must support it. Other things to consider while you do this job, splitting the case and replacing the roll pins on the 2nd rail shift shaft, new seals for the transmission and the rear engine seal, resurfacing the flywheel, replacing the clutch plate, pilot bearing, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing, lubricating the shift fork. Drain the gear oil from the transmission BEFORE you take it out. You may also want to check and replace the clutch slave and master cylinder and if you don't have the S/S hose, now is a good time to put it in. Check the rubber bushings in the shifter linkage and readjust the linkage after putting the tranny back. Another task is to clean and relubricate the C/V joints. Don't let the half-shafts hang and then bend the cups that hold the boots.

[Rich]

Thanks. I have steel I beams supporting the ceiling in my garage. Would it be possible to lift the engine and tranny with a come along and push the car out? So in other words do I need the car off the wheels when removing the the engine and tranny?

First, David's right that you can drop just the tranny if you get the car up high enough. F:05:01 covers it. Note all of his points as well.

As for the question of lifting the assembly and pushing the car if you pull the motor/transm, yes, that would work. The car can be on its wheels. Sounds like you're sure there's room to get the car far enough forward for you to get clearance on the motor/trans to break the clutch/transmission from the engine. You'll need to get under the car beforehand to take off the transmission mount bolts and the linkage so jackstands are involved at some point.

Here's a reference post you might find worthwhile: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1912

[SS Spoiler]

Iv'e pulled my trans twice and replaced it once using jack
stands. Amen on every thing Dave said plus check trans
mounts for cracks {weld 'em]. Don't put ring gear in backwards
or you will have 5 speed reverse and 1 speed forward.....

[Christian Dietrich]

I guess a way to support the engine if dropping the trans separately it's a place the beam across the back end of the engine compartment and hook it to the eye Loop that is bolted to the back head? Going to be doing my clutch one day but it is fine now knock on wood but is this a correct procedure by placing the beam across the back end?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[David T]

I just used a small bottle jack and a block of wood underneath. Nothing fancy like an engine support bracket from above you you need to do on many cars.

[Mike Griese]

If you don't need the car for winter, now is a good excuse to pull the lump and the gearbox and do all those hard to do things. Like replacing the clutch slave cylinder, cleaning up the valley of death (heck cleaning up everything), fixing any oil leaks, replacing old vacuum lines, all those impossible to reach coolant lines behind the intake manifold - all that deferred maintenance stuff that gets put off because of access issues.