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Thread: Clutch died

  1. #11
    Senior Member Christian Dietrich's Avatar
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    Location:  Bunker Hill, West Virginia

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    I guess a way to support the engine if dropping the trans separately it's a place the beam across the back end of the engine compartment and hook it to the eye Loop that is bolted to the back head? Going to be doing my clutch one day but it is fine now knock on wood but is this a correct procedure by placing the beam across the back end?

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  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    I just used a small bottle jack and a block of wood underneath. Nothing fancy like an engine support bracket from above you you need to do on many cars.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2017

    Posts:    33

    If you don't need the car for winter, now is a good excuse to pull the lump and the gearbox and do all those hard to do things. Like replacing the clutch slave cylinder, cleaning up the valley of death (heck cleaning up everything), fixing any oil leaks, replacing old vacuum lines, all those impossible to reach coolant lines behind the intake manifold - all that deferred maintenance stuff that gets put off because of access issues.
    --
    Mike

  4. #14
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS Spoiler View Post
    Iv'e pulled my trans twice and replaced it once using jack
    stands. Amen on every thing Dave said plus check trans
    mounts for cracks {weld 'em]. Don't put ring gear in backwards
    or you will have 5 speed reverse and 1 speed forward.....
    If you end up disassembling your transmission for a clutch job... you are doing it very wrong.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    If you end up disassembling your transmission for a clutch job... you are doing it very wrong.
    I don't agree. It would be a shame to do the clutch and then soon after have an issue because you didn't replace a $0.20 roll pin. The transmission is already out. What I don't agree with is pulling the motor to do this job. All of the other work that could need to be done on the motor can be done easily enough without removing it. That includes the rear seal. While I understand your reasoning, to limit "mission creep", a lot of this depends on judgement and experience. if you are not careful a clutch can turn into a restoration. Other concerns can include your workspace (is it heated, lighted, big enough for the job), your abilities, tools, time and finances. IMHO there are not very many reasons to pull the motor out of a Delorean. It is not like many exotic cars that the motor needs to come out for routine service like timing belts.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #16
    Senior Member Drive Stainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    I don't agree. It would be a shame to do the clutch and then soon after have an issue because you didn't replace a $0.20 roll pin. The transmission is already out. What I don't agree with is pulling the motor to do this job. All of the other work that could need to be done on the motor can be done easily enough without removing it. That includes the rear seal. While I understand your reasoning, to limit "mission creep", a lot of this depends on judgement and experience. if you are not careful a clutch can turn into a restoration. Other concerns can include your workspace (is it heated, lighted, big enough for the job), your abilities, tools, time and finances. IMHO there are not very many reasons to pull the motor out of a Delorean. It is not like many exotic cars that the motor needs to come out for routine service like timing belts.
    Hear that Josh S.? Better think about your abilities next time you go hoisting the engine out. The only reason you haven't destroyed the whole car by now pulling the engine 6 times is luck. Pure luck. Luck that will run out and before you know it, a wheel falls off. Oh wait.

  7. #17
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    990

    Question for the Master of Bitsyncs: how many miles did you get out of your clutch? This is always a subject I'm interested in. The consensus I'm getting is that 50K miles is pretty good for a clutch in these things. SAD!

  8. #18
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHill View Post
    Question for the Master of Bitsyncs: how many miles did you get out of your clutch? This is always a subject I'm interested in. The consensus I'm getting is that 50K miles is pretty good for a clutch in these things. SAD!
    I've put about 10,000 on it myself. The PO said the clutch was replaced so the car had 21,000 when I bought it.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #19
    Nothing witty here lest it offend
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I've put about 10,000 on it myself. The PO said the clutch was replaced so the car had 21,000 when I bought it.
    In other cars, when someone tells me they burn a clutch in so few miles I make certain quiet judgements about their skills behind the wheel, but that's certainly not the case here. I talked with someone at DMCMW on the subject and I can't quote directly, but the indirect message I took from it was not to be so dissapointed based on the average lifespan. Then again, we are hard on them in this particular region we live in.

  10. #20
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    To go along with what everyone else has already said, I'd like to add that a transmission jack will make your life much easier and I use a ratchet strap from the engine "lift eyelet" to the frame to keep it from moving - a bottle jack under the engine just puts more crap in the way of you working under the car. Make sure you have, or your kit comes with an alignment tool.
    -----Dan B.

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