Since Matt's clearly not wanting a sale here (why does this thread exist again?!)
ANDREW, clean out your inbox, I tried responding to your latest and got a full message.
Location: Middleburg Heights, OH
Posts: 1,939
Since Matt's clearly not wanting a sale here (why does this thread exist again?!)
ANDREW, clean out your inbox, I tried responding to your latest and got a full message.
Posts: 576
Post pics!Originally Posted by Shep
Location: Middleburg Heights, OH
Posts: 1,939
HAHA yeah right like I'd ever sell to you after that stunt. Nice try Ed B, nice try...
Posts: 576
Then get lost!
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
My car doesn't have the radiator duct. What I notice is above 3000 rpms the cooling system begins to get hot, everything is perfect in my cooling system w/new coolant.
Does this ducting solve that issue?
I have no other issue with my cooling system in stop & go traffic either, just a small issue I would like to solve.
When I reduce my speeds (rpm) the issue goes away.
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I don't see the problem(s). The boiling point of the coolant is ~257° F (125° C), if you have a 50/50 mix and a 15 psi cap.
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 160
My VIN: 04629
I guess I should have been more specific, In all highway speeds my cooling system operates as it should, even in traffic. But when I'm traveling at highway speeds, with the engine rpms at or above 3000. (I do have an automatic transmission) The gauge begins to start showing higher temps.
So my question is does this ducting help or hinder the efficiency of the cooling system?
(My little voice says that maybe the increased rpms 'pumps the coolant quicker than normal and doesn't get the chance of proper cooling also?)
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Me too lol
Most engines are "warmed up" at 145F, but you want it to be at least 180F for the lubrication system and combustion..., 195F for those with O2 sensors. Most have the fan(s) come on at ~200F, but a stock DeLorean otterstat turns them on at ~220F (according to the gauge, a POS imho. Check this as there are replacements using different values). From here, the fan(s) should keep it below 230F.
So for a D, !95F to 220F is the "normal" range. >230F is where most indicate excessive heat via gauge/alarm.
I'd suggest verifying the gauge reading by taking the cap off, warming it up fully, then shooting the coolant in the tank directly with a laser thermometer. If they are close and it has always shows <230F, I wouldn't worry about it...especially since you (two) say you don't have problems at mid-low speeds and that is where the ducts/shrouds are needed - you don't really need fans at high speeds...
BUT, I'd install the ducts for mid-low speeds, and GP, anyway - Without question if driving in the hotter areas.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
I think the stock otterstat is 96 C on and 88 C off. That would be 204.8 F and 190.4 F
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